When Marco Polo visited the leafy, lakeside city of Hangzhou in the 13th century, it was home to a million citizens who hustled and bustled around a mighty river and pristine lake crisscrossed with hundreds of bridges. Polo called it “the finest and most splendid city in the world”.
Today this metropolis, under an hour from Shanghai by bullet train, encapsulates a leisurely, mellow way of life. Besides the classically Chinese triptych of green tea, fine silk, and breathtaking views, it’s home to three Unesco world heritage sites: West Lake; the Grand Canal; and the Liangzhu ruins. Here are Hangzhou’s highlights …
Wander round West Lake
Fringed by lotus pools, weeping willows, flower gardens, rugged hills and reflecting pagodas, Unesco-listed West Lake is Hangzhou’s beating heart – praised by poets and emperors for centuries. A lakeside wander, or even a cruise, makes the perfect start to any Hangzhou visit – or cycle the full circuit for a comprehensive view.
Make time for tea
The Chinese take tea at least as seriously as us Brits, and Hangzhou’s longjing green tea is a national treasure. Experience tea in all its forms at the National Tea Museum, sip longjing in a classic country teahouse such as the Longjing Imperial tea garden, or join farmers in their homes (or fields) in tranquil villages such as Meijiawu.
Get on a bike
Bike-share schemes make Hangzhou a delight to get around, particularly coupled with the extensive bike lane network and efficient metro system (which, handily, like the streets, is signposted in both English and Mandarin). Rent a tourist smartcard from a street-side kiosk to pick up bikes and drop them off at will.
Feast Hangzhou-style
Chinese food is highly regional and, as one of the nation’s ancient capitals, Hangzhou has a cuisine that’s all its own. At farm-to-table fine diner Longjing Manor, proprietor Dai Jianjun has made an international name with uncompromising renditions of traditional Hangzhou fare. For more affordable eats, the Grandma’s Home (Wai Po Jia) chain has branches citywide. Don’t miss delicate shrimp cooked in green tea, West Lake fish in vinegar, or dongpo pork – a fragrant dish named for the 11th-century Chinese poet Su Dongpo.
Marvel at ancient ruins
China is the world’s oldest continuous civilisation, and the Liangzhu ruins joined the Unesco world heritage list in July this year. About 5,000 years ago, the Liangzhu people built a flood-control system on the Yangtze, created elaborate jade ornaments, and constructed an imperial city. The archaeological site, just outside Hangzhou, recently opened to visitors, and a beautiful museum designed by David Chipperfield nearby hosts most of its treasures.
Cruise the Grand Canal
The world’s longest manmade waterway, China’s Grand Canal was started in the fifth-century BC and, at its peak, stretched 1,115 miles (1,794km), from Beijing to Hangzhou. Not all of it is navigable today, but you can experience this engineering marvel in Hangzhou. Night cruises create a very Chinese contrast between stone bridges, scarlet lanterns, and blazing skyscrapers and malls.
Shop for silk
While it’s a high-tech capital today – home to China’s largest e-commerce company, Alibaba, as well as a dynamic startup scene – Hangzhou built its wealth on the silk trade. Follow the fabric’s journey from mulberry leaf to mill at the China National Silk Museum, shop at hundreds of different stores at the Silk City wholesale and retail complex, or pick up a fan or a scarf on Qinghefang Ancient Street – an historic shopping street near West Lake.
Catch some art
Hangzhou is home to the nation’s top art university, the China Academy of Art, and many young creatives stay after finishing their degrees. The Zhejiang Art Museum, with its mountainous glass and black steel roof, is an architectural landmark, as is the academy’s own museum, decked with millions of reclaimed tiles. For up-and-coming contemporary artists, visit Inna Art Space.
Take in a temple
High in the hills above Hangzhou, the vast Lingyin Temple was once home to as many as 3,000 Buddhist monks. As atmospheric as the temple itself, are the grottoes and valleys around it. Follow a delicate web of narrow paths to hundreds of stone carvings, some more than 1,000 years old. To really slow down and unwind, be sure to also visit the Yongfu Temple with its beautiful grounds and amazing hillside views.
Plan your own unique holiday in Hangzhou here
