It’s amazing what even a short sledging session can do to keep kids’ enthusiasm fresh.
Photograph: Mirja Geh
Skiing with kids, it can go two ways. One day your toddler can be throwing themselves to the ground in the snow, refusing to even try to put their skis on. Or wear a hat. Or sunglasses. Or a smile. Because they hate skiing and want to go home. The next minute, they’re a speed demon, showing you up on the steeps with their amazing balance, style and complete lack of fear, whooping with joy.
I’ve had plenty of experience with both, and I’ve come to the conclusion that the key to ensuring there’s far more of the latter is picking the right kind of resort rather than limitless hot chocolate bribes (although that can’t hurt, either).
Somewhere uncrowded is what you need, with a friendly-looking landscape that doesn’t have too many overwhelming high-altitude views. The focus should be on fun, with plenty of giggle-worthy activities.
St Johann in Tirol might just be one of those perfect resorts that ticks all the boxes. In the heart of the Kitzbühel Alps, the easy slopes of St Johann connect with those of Oberndorf to make one very family- and beginner-friendly resort. There are 17 ski lifts and 22 pistes (26 miles’ worth) topping out at a not-too-scary 1,604 metres, with ski buses running to nearby Kirchdorf and Erpfendorf, for a few more easy runs.
If you’re ready to put your little one into lessons, there are six different ski schools to choose from, and the kids’ and beginners’ areas have great piste-to-piste visibility, so parents can lap the slopes nearby, checking in now and again. Tots who aren’t quite strong enough for proper lessons can attend kindergarten, such as Schneesportschule Eichenhof, which has skiing lessons for two- to three-year-olds. The school also offers a teenager programme to master powder, freestyle and racing.
From my own experience, when I realised our own kids weren’t going to be doing backflips at the age of two, my partner and I focused on just getting them used to snow – playing with it, rolling in it, enjoying fun snowy activities, but not necessarily clipping into skis. St Johann’s range of winter walking trails are perfect for this, including short, almost flat routes that even little legs can manage. Just remember to pack a big slice of Tirolean fruit bread from one of the local bakeries, and a sledge to tow thekids on when they crash. For a more immersive experience, the tourist board’s guided, themed walks, such as the 90-minute full moon winter hike, are free with your St Johann card (which is itself given free by your accommodation).
Equipment seems to make everything more exciting for kids, so older ones will love a snowshoe tour, such as the 90-minute hike to the 300-year-old Weeping Mary Hermitage. For a cosier, lazier treat, a horse-drawn sled ride will reveal the same spellbinding frosty scenery but without the effort.
If you get some time without the kids, ski the series of runs to Oberndorf, where the brave can tackle a black run down to the village. Or if the whole family is ready for a challenge together, hit St Johann’s funpark – and if you don’t want the teenagers to show you up on the jumps, remember to follow the old skiers’ adage: “go big or go home”.
However keen kids are, they tend to have a lull towards the middle of the week, when they run out of energy. Keep their enthusiasm fresh with a change of activity for half a day. It’s amazing what even a short sledging session can do to revive their snow passion. Sledging in St Johann means taking the Hochfeld chair up the mountain to ride a long trail back down, illuminated way past their bedtime, until 11pm.
There’s also ice-skating, indoor bouldering at the Koasa Boulder centre, and several indoor pools, as well as an indoor playground, Murmi’s Kinderland. If you need to pull out the big guns, there’s even a flying fox zipline, paragliding, or hot-air ballooning. But they’d have to have been seriously well-behaved to deserve that.
And for those all-important hot chocolates? You’re spoilt for choice, with 20 cosy mountain restaurants dotted between the slopes. The traditional chalet-style Grander Schupf has a playground and indoor slide (for both children and adults), which should occupy them long enough for you to enjoy a glass of local beer and a plate of cheese dumplings. Stop for a St Johanner sausage at Ski Drive In; and in the medieval village base try the Villa Masianco for pizza, pasta and salads. It’s a restaurant that claims children are its priority.
If you don’t have a successful trip in this resort, I’ll eat my beanie.
