There are two reasons today’s recipes are German-inspired: the three-week Oktoberfest that’s taking place right now, which celebrates companionship, cheer and silly amounts of beer (all very good causes, in my book), and a recent trip to Alsace, which reminded me of the region’s conviviality and its hearty food – rooted in German traditions and the perfect antidote to the short days ahead. Although I’ve played around quite a bit with tradition here, all three recipes aim to have the same radiant effect: they’re festive, filling and fun.
Flammkuchen with speck and grilled leeks (pictured above)
This is my take on a German flatbread that’s typically topped with sour cream, bacon and onion. If you want to get ahead, make the dough and leave to prove overnight in the fridge.
Prep 10 min
Prove 2 hrs-plus
Cook 1 hr 15 min
Serves 4 as a main or 8 as a snack
For the dough
500g strong white bread flour
1¼ tsp salt
2 tsp fast-action dried yeast (ie, 1 sachet, or 7g)
320ml lukewarm water
1½ tbsp olive oil, plus extra to grease
For the topping
750g leeks, cleaned, trimmed, green parts discarded, then cut into 1½cm-thick rounds
90ml olive oil
Salt and black pepper
280g creme fraiche
140g speck (about 16 slices), cut in half widthways
10g chives, cut into 1cm lengths
Put all the dough ingredients in a freestanding mixer with the dough hook in place. Mix on medium-high speed for 10 minutes, or until smooth and elastic, then transfer to a lightly oiled bowl (the dough will be quite sticky) and cover with a slightly damp tea towel. Leave to sit in a warm place for two to three hours, or until doubled in size.
Meanwhile, prepare the topping. Put a well-greased griddle pan on a high heat. Toss the leek rounds with four tablespoons of oil, half a teaspoon of salt and a good grind of pepper. Once the pan is smoking hot, grill the leeks in about three batches for four to five minutes, flipping them once halfway, until deeply charred and softened. Transfer to a plate and repeat with the remaining leeks. Don’t worry if the rounds come apart a little – grill the loose strands until they’re just charred and add them to the plate.
In a small bowl, mix the creme fraiche with a third of a teaspoon of salt and a good grind of pepper.
Heat the oven to its highest setting. Divide the dough into four equal pieces of about 210g each, and roll each one into a ball. Cover with a damp tea towel and leave to sit for another 20 minutes.
Put two large trays in the oven to heat up. Cut out four 35cm squares of greaseproof paper. Use a well-floured rolling pin to roll out each ball on to a piece of paper into a very thin round (it won’t be perfectly round) about 28cm in diameter. Spread all over with the creme fraiche mixture and top with the leek rounds (and any strands) and speck, scrunching up the speck a little. Drizzle a teaspoon and a half of oil over each flatbread. Carefully transfer two of the flatbreads, with their paper bases, on to the preheated trays and bake for 10-12 minutes, until browned and cooked through, then lift and slide on to a large board, discarding the paper. Repeat with the remaining two flatbreads.
To serve, sprinkle the chives over the top and cut each flatbread into four or eight pieces. Divide between four plates, or serve directly off the board or a large platter.
Schupfnudeln with browned butter and poppy seeds
This German version of gnocchi is made in much the same way as its Italian counterpart. If you don’t make the spiced turmeric cabbage (see next recipe), sauerkraut, be it homemade or shop-bought, is just as good an accompaniment. Schupfnudeln can also be served as dessert, sprinkled with some cinnamon suga.
Prep 5 min
Cook 1 hr 45 min
Serves 4
1.2kg maris piper potatoes, scrubbed clean
3 egg yolks, beaten
100g plain flour, sifted, plus extra for rolling
⅓ tsp ground nutmeg
Salt and black pepper
2 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for drizzling
100g unsalted butter
1½ tsp poppy seeds
Heat the oven to 250C (230C fan)/ gas 9+. Prick the potatoes all over with a fork, about 10 times each. Put them directlyon the middle rack of the oven and bake for 45 minutes, or until cooked through. While they’re still hot, halve the potatoes and scoop out the flesh; save the skins for another use.
Pass the potato flesh through a ricer directly on to a clean work surface, and spread out the mash slightly. Evenly drizzle over the egg yolks, then sprinkle on the flour, nutmeg, half a teaspoon of salt and plenty of pepper, and use your hands to bring the dough together; do not knead or overmix.
Divide the dough into four equal pieces and then, on a lightly floured surface, roll each piece into a long cylinder about 25cm long. Cut into 12 even pieces of 15-20g each, then roll each piece of dough into a roughly finger-length torpedo shape. Transfer to a lightly floured tray lined with greaseproof paper, and repeat with the remaining potato mix.
Bring a large saucepan of very well-salted water to a boil. Add the potato dumplings in batches, about four in total, cooking each batch on a for about 90 seconds, or until they float to the surface. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the cooked dumplings to a colander to drain, then transfer to an oven tray lined with greaseproof paper and drizzle lightly with a little oil (so they don’t stick).
Meanwhile, put the butter in a small saucepan on a medium heat, cook for 10-12 minutes, swirling the pan occasionally, until nutty and browned. Remove from the heat and stir in the poppy seeds and a quarter-teaspoon of salt.
Put a teaspoon and a half of oil in a large, nonstick saute pan on a medium-high heat. Once hot, add a quarter of the dumplings and fry, flipping as required, for four to five minutes, until well browned all over. Transfer to a large plate while you repeat with the rest of the dumplings, adding a fresh teaspoon and a half of oil each time.
Wipe out the saute pan and put it on a medium heat. Return the dumplings to the pan, pour over the browned butter and warm through for a couple of minutes. Divide the schupfnudeln between four plates and serve.
Spiced turmeric cabbage
This quick version of sauerkraut skips the standard two-week fermentation process by lightly cooking the cabbage in vinegar first. Keep it in the fridge for up to 10 days, and serve with schupfnudeln (see previous recipe, for example), or on any occasion that calls for a pickle or a sharp salad.
Prep 15 min
Cook 25 min
Serves 4 as a side
2 tbsp olive oil
1 head white cabbage (1kg), core removed and thinly shredded about ¼cm-thick pieces
30g fresh turmeric, peeled and thinly sliced into rounds (or ½ tsp ground turmeric powder)
1¾ tsp salt
100ml apple cider vinegar
1½ tsp caster sugar
2 tsp coriander seeds, toasted
2 tsp cumin seeds, toasted
10g dill leaves
On a medium-high heat, warm the oil in a large saute pan for which you have a lid. Once hot, add the cabbage, turmeric and a teaspoon and salt, stir to combine, then cover the pot with a lid and cook for 10 minutes, stirring only twice, until the cabbage wilts but doesn’t take on any colour. Remove the lid, add the vinegar, sugar, seeds and two tablespoons of water, and cook uncovered, stirring occasionally, for another eight minutes, or until the liquid evaporates and the cabbage is tender but still has some bite. Set aside to cool completely, then refrigerate until ready to serve. Stir through the dill leaves just before serving.
