Those of you who are on Twitter will be familiar with how a Twitterstorm can blow up at the slightest provocation, a recent example from the wine world being a slightly tetchy debate as to why riesling is not stocked more widely. The wine-writing fraternity, who tend to be enthusiastic riesling advocates, argue that retailers, particularly supermarkets, should do more to promote its charms. Those in the trade, however, say it’s not the supermarkets’ job to shape consumer taste, merely to stock bottles for which there is a proven demand.
So why don’t more consumers want riesling? Well, it carries a lot of baggage: the long, unwieldy names; the fact that even the variety is easy to mispronounce (reece-ling, not ry-sling); the perception that it’s generally German and sweet (neither of which is true). No wonder many people give up and drink sauvignon blanc instead.
But according to the independent wine merchants I’ve spoken to, it’s more a question of giving customers the chance to try it. “It’s rare, but not unheard of, for someone to come in and ask for it off their own bat” says riesling enthusiast Mike Boyne of Bin Two in Padstow, Cornwall. “But having it on by the glass helps. Conversations often start with: ‘Do you mind if I have a little taste of…’ and end with: ‘A glass of that, please.’”
It certainly helps to kick off in the new world, especially Australia’s Clare Valley, which makes lusciously limey rieslings that are easy to love. You also find deliciously fragrant rieslings from New York State and Washington State in the US and from New Zealand. Closer to home, Alsace and Austria produce drier, steelier styles than Germany, although even in Germany you can find a huge range, from the off-dry wines of the Mosel to the richer, more tropical styles of the Rheingau. Confusingly, a wine with “kabinett” on the label, generally taken to mean a dry wine, can be moderately sweet, especially if aligned to a low ABV; instead, look for the word “trocken” and a higher alcohol content.
Much is made of riesling’s longevity, but I wonder how helpful that is, because only true enthusiasts get off on the slightly oily aromas and flavours that emanate from a mature bottle. For riesling virgins, fresh fruitiness is much more likely to appeal, so look for vintages from 2016-2018. There should be plenty of opportunity to experiment over the annual 31 Days of German Riesling promotion next month. I’m sure the Germans would like you to drink nothing else, but frankly, any riesling is better than no riesling.
Four rieslings that should win you round
Prüm Mosel Riesling 2018
£5.99 Aldi, 11.5%.
A good introduction to German riesling without breaking the bank. Off-dry, perfect for a prawn or veggie stir-fry.
Niedermenninger Riesling Kabinett von Kesselstatt 2017
£11.50 Wine Society, 9%.
Almost twice the price of the Prüm, but a marked step up in quality, with a lovely, searing acidity offsets delicate sweetness. Drink with smoked fish.
O’Leary Walker Polish Hill Riesling 2016
£9.99 (on offer, down from £12.99) Ocado, selected Waitrose and online, 11.5%.
Ace deal on a classic, limey Clare Valley riesling. Drink with Asian-style salads.
Riesling ‘1000 Eimerberg’ Federspiel, Franz Josef Gritsch, Mauritiushof, Wachau 2017
£20.95 Vin Cognito, 12.5%.
Crisp, pure Austrian that shows how stellar riesling can be. Simply cooked veal or chicken would be lovely.
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