The official London Fashion Week schedule had a fresh addition on Sunday night, as campaigners for and members of the Windrush generation modelled in a catwalk show.
For the event, titled Next Generation Regeneration: Fashion and Revolution, they modelled plain black T-shirts emblazoned with the words ‘Compensation not Detention’ while one sang an acoustic version of Bob Marley’s Rastaman Chant. A second group was led by the rapper Drillminister, who also performed one of his tracks.
The event, part of a day of Windrush-themed celebrations at Lambeth Town Hall in Brixton, was produced by model, designer and campaigner Eunice Olumide, who also created the collection on show.
In doing so, her hope was to highlight the “huge and positive impact on society of the Windrush generation”, who were invited to the UK from the Caribbean to help rebuild the country after the second world war. Many were subsequently wrongly denied citizenship by the Home Office in 2018.
“Fashion is a really good vehicle to discuss culture,” said Olumide, who was awarded an MBE in 2017 services to broadcasting, the arts, and charity. “It’s very visual and it’s something that’s been very well archived. There is something fascinating about the way the culture of the Windrush generation affected the UK so significantly in terms of dress and style and fashion, as well as music. They influenced ska, punk, and other subgroups and cultures coming out of that period.”
Ahead of the show itself, attendees were invited to listen to free fashion and sustainability presentations, music performances and panel discussions with comedian Nish Kumar, as well as singer Jamelia, who later attended the fashion show.
More than half of the passengers on the Empire Windrush had left homes in Jamaica. According to the official passenger list – held by the National Archives – 541 people gave their last country of residence as Jamaica, out of a total 1,027 onboard.
Bermuda was the last country of residence of 139 passengers, while Trinidad was listed for 74 people. Sixty-six passengers came from Mexico, but their nationality was recorded as Polish.
A further 44 passengers were from British Guiana (now Guyana) on the northern coast of South America. England was listed as the last country of residence for 119 people – 12% of the total onboard.
Fifteen people came from other parts of the UK: 10 from Scotland, four from Wales and one from Northern Ireland.
Among the passengers were small numbers from countries as far apart as Burma (five people), New Zealand (two), Norway (one) and Uganda (one). A couple of stowaways were also mentioned on the passenger list: a 39-year-old dressmaker from Jamaica and a 30-year-old from Trinidad.
“The Asian community is not immune to the racism of this government,” said Kumar. “The fight of the Windrush generation is the fight of everyone from an immigrant background.”
An earlier fashion presentation by Harris Elliott paid reference to the Windrush period, and was followed by a sustainability presentation by fashion designer Nkwo, whose work is made from recycled denim. The day’s keynote speech was delivered by human rights activist Sir Geoff Palmer.
Following the show, Lambeth councillor Sonia Winifred spoke of how the Windrush generation had contributed to the UK’s sense of style.
“We know that the Windrush generation looked fantastic,” she said. “The men were immaculate, the women just sensational.”
London fashion week
Started in the 1980s, London Fashion Week is organised by the British Fashion Council. It takes place four times a year, in February and September for womenswear and January and June for menswear. February showcases autumn and winter looks, while September’s focus is on the following spring and summer seasons
Around 14,000 people attend each year, including press and buyers, and the designers exhibiting include major heritage brands as well as emerging talent.
After the main event has ended, the 4-day London Fashion Week Festival takes place. This allows consumers and shoppers a chance to experience the shows and view collections.
While located some miles from the other London fashion week shows’ central London locations, the Next Generation Regeneration: Fashion and Revolution show’s venue was significant, with Lambeth described as “the heart of the Windrush community”. There is also currently a petition to erect a memorial in Brixton’s Windrush Square, opposite the town hall, rather than the government proposed location of Waterloo station.
“The fashion industry has long been linked to revolution, anarchy and significant change within culture and society,” said Olumide. “It is an area where marginalised groups have often been able to bring recognition to various serious social, economic and environmental issues within everyday life.”
