Why you need Vitamin C in your summer skincare regime

Summertime and the living is easy.

Well, perhaps not for our skin. Sweat, sunburn and air con can all wreak havoc on your face in the summer months. But luckily, there’s a super ingredient out there to solve all your skin’s summer woes. Vitamin C is an antioxidant that protects skin from UV damage, stimulates collagen production, and lifts away dark spots revealing bright and glowing skin.

But how should you use it? And in what cream? And when?

To get some insider tips, we spoke to skincare supremo Eilidh Smith, founder of Skinwork, one of London’s best facial destinations. Located in Alex Eagle’s store in Soho, Skinwork brings together the most effective technology, potent professional products and traditional techniques. They also give brand agnostic skincare services and advice, which means Elidih was the perfect person to give us some unbiased product recommendations.

Here are her top tips:

Why is vitamin C essential for skincare?

Vitamin C protects the skin from environmental factors by reducing free radicals.

Free radicals are unstable molecules which cause cell damage. When trying to stabilise they try to attach to other molecules (your skin cells) and this causes damage ie. oxidisation. Anti-oxidants protect and slow this oxidisation. Free radicals can come from pollution, sunlight, smoking and alcohol.

Vitamin C is one of the essential skincare regime ingredients as it stimulates collagen production, firms the skin, targets uneven skin tone and is one of the most powerful antioxidants for overall skin health.

What does it do for the skin?

Vitamin C protects the skin, protecting cells from the environmental damage which causes ageing.

The antioxidant is not naturally produced in the body – so eating and applying topically is how your skin will see the benefits of Vitamin C.

Benefits of Vitamin C:

Reduces formation of free radicals – which cause cell damage
Prevents collagen breakdown – which causes ageing
Stimulates collagen synthesis – which slows down with ageing
Evens-out skin tone, reduces age spots, brightens
In certain forms it can reduce acne.

Should I use Vitamin C in conjunction with any other products?

Combining Vitamin C with Vitamin E greatly increases its effectiveness.

Combining Vitamin C with an SPF also creates a greater effect for both products. Vitamin C boosts the efficacy of your SPF, plus Vitamin C can oxidise on the skins surface and SPF helps slow this and therefore you maximise the effect from the Vitamin C.

Do you need it particularly in summer?

Vitamin C is beneficial in summer but also all year round! Remember to use an SPF when you are using a potent Vitamin C.

Is Vitamin C best applied as a serum, cream or mask?

A serum or paste would always be our first recommendation as they penetrate into the skin more easily and are typically more active formulations.

Moisturisers and eye creams are also beneficial. Mask or cleansers and wipes are beneficial for an instant radiance boost but you don’t get the long term benefits in the same way as a serum.

Is there a good time of day to use it?

You can use Vitamin C morning or night depending on your skin and routine. If you are using a potent Vitamin C in the morning we recommend using an SPF afterwards. If we are recommending Retinol for evening use, we will recommend the Vitamin C is used in the morning. Otherwise you can use Vitamin C overnight while your skin is repairing. Depending on your skin’s tolerance you should be able to use every day – if you experience any stinging then decrease frequency and build up to daily.

What should I look out for when buying Vitamin C products?

Stable formulation – it can be a challenge to stabilise Vitamin C in skincare, as it’s sensitive to air, heat and light. Look for Ascorbic Acid with ferulic acid and vitamin E – as these help stabilise the formula. Or a Vitamin C derivative like Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate which is much more stable than Ascorbic Acid.
Fragrance free product – fragrance can cause irritation.
Highest percentage isn’t always the best – if your skin is sensitive or acne-prone. For skin which is not acne-prone and tolerates vitamin C well you can go with Ascorbic Acid (AA) and a higher percentage (around 10-20 per cent). For sensitive skin, go for a lower percentage and for acne-prone skin stick to Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate at around 5 per cent.
Packaging – Vitamin C oxidises when coming into contact with air, so look for airless pump packaging maintains the products efficacy for longer.