In 2019 Circle Economy was commissioned by the Dutch Ministry for
Infrastructure and Waterways to investigate the accuracy of composition
labels in clothes. Using the Fibersort machine, over 10.000 garments were
tested: in 41 percent of cases the garment composition labels did not match
the composition of the garment. As Fashion Revolution week launches a new
campaign this week – #whatsinmyclothes – the answer to the question is not
as straightforward as expected.
This article was written by Hilde van Duijn, Project Manager at Circle
Economy, for FashionUnited.
How do we know the labels will tell us what is in our clothes?
We rely on the legislation that obliges apparel brands and retailers to
disclose the necessary information to consumers, so they can make informed
choices when shopping. In the European Union, apparel brands and retailers
are required to inform their customers adequately on the composition of
textile products at the time of purchase. The European Textile Regulation
states that textile products sold in the European Union need to be labelled
or marked in a durable, easily legible and visible way. There are some
exceptions to this rule for more complex products (like bras) on the
materials that need to be included in the composition claims. However, this
Regulation should ensure European consumers know what is in the garments
they buy most. National governments are responsible for the enforcement of
this Regulation in their territories.
To make sure they provide reliable composition claims on the products
they sell, apparel brands and retailers (especially larger ones) have
established extensive quality control systems to test the actual
composition of their products at several stages in their supply chains. In
case of inaccurate composition claims, products would be relabelled or
stickers added to correct the composition claims on the labels. A brand
selling textile products on the European market with inaccurate labels
could face legal repercussions and/or financial claims. We now focus on
Europe, however, similar regulations apply in most countries worldwide.
Do labels actually tell us what is in our clothes?
In 2018, doubts were raised regarding the accuracy of composition claims
on garment labels on the Dutch market. Why? With the introduction of
Fibersort, a technology able to categorise textiles based on their
composition, misleading claims on labels became apparent to sorters of used
clothing. The Fibersort machine scans individual garments using
near-infrared light to detect their actual composition, which turned out to
often differ from the one stated on the garment label. Dutch Parliament,
therefore, urged the national government to investigate these
discrepancies.
In spring 2019, extensive testing by an external lab showed Fibersort is
able to recognise textiles’ composition in a very accurate way. Circle
Economy was therefore commissioned by the Ministry for Infrastructure and
Waterways to execute a larger scale research using the Fibersort machine.
Based on a sample of over 10,000 garments, the results of this research
show that consumers are likely to be misled by inaccurate composition
claims on labels in 41 percent of the cases. Deviations between claimed and
actual composition of garments were found for all material types, with the
strongest deviations found in garments that consist of multiple fibre types
(especially combinations between cotton and polyester).
Why can labels be inaccurate?
What do these conclusions tell us? Allegations of fraud are easily made.
However, the truth – as always – is less black and white than you might
expect. Fraud would imply labels claim a higher content of expensive fibre
types like cotton than the garment actually has to maximise the product
price. However, the results of the research were far more nuanced than
that… Let’s have a closer look at the deviations between claimed and
actual composition of garments made of cotton-rich cotton and polyester
blends, bearing in mind that cotton is a more expensive fibre.
Textile supply chains are global, long and complex. While brands have
established and implemented extensive quality control mechanisms, product
information on intermediate products like yarn and fabric is transferred
from one supplier to another before a garment manufacturer or product
trader will attach a label. Considering the speed and volumes of
production, inaccuracies easily arise. The study sample shows that for 11
percent of cotton-polyester composition claims deliberate fraud is not
likely: the claimed composition of the more expensive material is lower
than the actual one. In this case a garment with a label that claims it has
50 percent of cotton 50 percent of polyester actually would have more than
50 percent cotton content. No industry player would deliberately
under-claim a more expensive fibre.
Of course the opposite is also true. For around one-third of the
cotton-rich cotton-polyester garments analysed for this study, cotton
content claimed was much higher than it actually was. These outcomes
suggest that intentional exaggeration of cotton content is plausible.
Garments with inaccurate labels should not be allowed to enter the
European market – as stipulated by the European Textile Regulation. And
still, the full sample analysed consisted of textiles discarded by Dutch
consumers, which were therefore most probably bought in the European Union.
While enforcement of the Regulation is the responsibility of national
governments, we found the accuracy of composition claims on garment labels
not to be a high priority topic on the agendas of responsible authorities,
as indicated by their representatives and illustrated by the lack of
information on the topic. As the product portfolio these authorities must
oversee also includes more risky topics like food safety, and as capacity
for on-the-spot checks is limited, accurate textile composition claims are
not deemed a priority.
Unreliable consumer information on lables
can lead to more unused items piling up in closets and ultimately more
textile waste.
Why should you care about what labels (do not) say?
Generally speaking, consumers show an increasing awareness for the
impact of their purchasing behaviour. They buy products from brands and
retailers they trust and relate to, investigate the pros and cons of
material types, take care of their garments and ensure to find the best
destination for products they dispose of. Inaccurate labels will thwart
even the sustainability efforts of the most dedicated sustainable
fashionistas.
Dishonest composition claims mislead people into buying products with a
different impact than anticipated for. For instance, cotton is a more
expensive raw material and has twice the environmental impact of polyester
(according to the industry’s HIGG Index). However a consumer might be
willing to pay a higher price for a natural fibre when he or she aims to
live plastic-free. While a buyer might consciously be choosing to purchase
the more expensive cotton shirt, he might still end-up owning a (partially)
synthetic garment instead.
At time of purchase, we all want to ensure the product is fit for use.
One checks the label to make sure the product has the properties you are
looking for, and the buying decision is based on the information provided –
even more so when buying online without the opportunity to feel a product.
It’s also very likely that unreliable consumer information can lead to even
more unused items piling up in closets and ultimately more textile
waste.
Garments come at a price. They also have a value at the moment they are
disposed of. Ideally they will be suitable for reuse by a next consumer and
after that sooner or later they might become feedstock for recycling.
Products made of one fabric could be recycled into new ones, mainly if
they consist of one fibre type – ideally wool, cotton or acrylic. A
conscious consumer might consider this a driver to choose specific
products. Unfortunately, as the labels research with the Fibersort showed,
the only destination of these carefully selected items after they can no
longer be worn might be downcycling or incineration because the labels
were inaccurate.
So, what is in my clothes?
Consumers have a right to know the composition of textile products they
buy to be able to make conscious choices and go for truly more sustainable
products. Therefore, industry and governments should continue to play their
role to ensure product information is reliable and accurate. Meanwhile,
consumers should care about the materials and garments they buy, and call
for reliable product information to base a smart purchasing decision on.
The best way to motivate industry and governments to take action is by
asking your favourite brands, for instance on social media,
#whatsinmyclothes?
Circle Economy supports apparel brands work towards circularity
through training programmes, masterclasses, circularity assessments, and
more. Learn more here
Top image: Andrey Popov | Dreamstime.com
