What to Wear: this autumn, it’s all about rugby shirts

If you’re looking for in-depth analysis of England’s win over the All Blacks on Saturday morning, this column isn’t for you.

While I’ve got plenty to say about the beautiful game, my egg-shaped ball knowledge extends no further than a childhood trip to Murrayfield to see Scotland take on the Kiwis, and that episode of Friends — The one With All The Rugby — when a loved-up Ross is brutalised by Emily’s broad-shouldered bevy of English pals. Scotland’s performance during this tournament has done nothing to amend matters.

That said, the kit worn for such a pursuit has the potential to become my new speciality subject. At least, the rugby strip is currently figuring among my personal subjects of notable interest, with the arrival of M&S Christmas sandwiches and Mike Bushell’s apparent invincibility on Strictly in a closely fought battle for second and third place. The reason for this new-found enthusiasm stems from the catwalk — soz, rugby fans — and has little to do with Owen Farrell (although I’m assured the England captain wears his well). It began with the revitalisation of heritage sportswear, and now menswear brand Kent & Curwen has ensured the style’s position as a wardrobe staple.

The London-based label (incidentally backed by the most famous spherical-shaped-ball-kicker on the planet, David Beckham) has given new life to the cult classic — previously made popular by “weekending” dads and hip-hop stars — and made it a regular fixture in its collections. It is joined by Gucci and Alexander Wang which have both made valiant attempts to rebrand the prep star in recent years. 

Customers are charging towards the rugby shirt on the high street, with everyone from ASOS to Monki offering interpretations of the style for men and women.

In its most traditional form the shirt should be crafted from heavy-duty cotton — strong enough to withstand the scrum — and detailed with broad stripes. But today’s incarnation comes in a whole host of options, with block colours, cropped and logo splayed among the most popular.  London-based Kitri scored a try with its bottle green striped Catriona rugby shirt — now sadly sold out — while US designer Veronica Beard has won new fans with its navy and cornflower striped take on the classic strip (£157, shop it here.)

On the matter of how to wear, take valiance only from the England team  and avoid their short-shorts. In its most contemporary incarnation it looks best worn with loose-fitting denim and your favourite pair of trainers. Sturdy boots are a good idea — Bella Hadid wears her favourite blue and white shirt with Doc Martens. And, whatever you do, avoid heels — any attempt to “sexy up” rugby is a fashion crime as heinous as a sexy cat Halloween costume.  

Seek out oversized shapes — your dad’s wardrobe may be the perfect place to begin. It’s also worth a thorough search of eBay — just as vintage football shirts are big business, the pre-loved rugby shirt market is growing in strength, with shirts changing hands for up to £200. Look out for neutral shades for longevity — navy is never a bad idea — and I’d also suggest avoiding logos. 

And good luck for Saturday, may the force be with you —  and Mike Bushell.