The latest lifestyle, fashion and travel trends
From tweed skirts to Prince of Wales check, heritage textiles are fashion’s baseline right now.
But is there something a little bit Brexity about the re-emergence of this Best of British look? Certainly the connotations of ye olde and marvellous Britannia — see period dramas, Dickensian factory bosses and afternoons chasing down foxes across our green and pleasant lands — are impossible to avoid.
The resurgence of natty tweeds and herringbone is conjuring similar associations in Paris, where heritage fabrics stand as a reminder of the bourgeoisie. When Hedi Slimane unveiled his second collection for Celine this year he painted a picture of conservatism with kilts, woollen culottes and tweed blazers with the message that ladylike dressing was back en vogue.
In the months since, momentum for this look has gained pace on both sides of the Channel and beyond, with everyone from Stella McCartney to high-street favourite Arket going long on heritage textiles and so-called ladylike glamour.
Does London’s infatuation with traditionalism reflect a society that’s longing to go back to the ways of the good old days? Certainly not: the one million protesters who took to the streets of the capital in the name of progressive politics stand as proof of that. But this love-in with heritage textiles is perhaps indicative of a society that’s questioning its own values.
To this end, the gentrified countryfile takes on new life for autumn/winter 2019 with a stiff upper lip and starched shirt aesthetic giving way to something a little cooler. Imagine the Duchess of Cornwall’s favourite tweed two piece had a love child with one of Patti Smith’s tuxedo jackets and you’ll get the idea.
In style terms, it’s an ankle-length Prince of Wales check coat by Stella McCartney teamed with catseye shades and a stomping pair of biker boots, or a Sixties-inspired tweed skirt from Arket worn with long white boots and a T-shirt. In political terms, this look is proof of a society wondering what it means to be British in 2019.
For some, it’s also a safe space. In tempestuous times as these are there’s something comforting in that which is familiar. But how to indulge your love for heritage fabrics without looking like you belong down the pub with Nigel Farage and his friends?
The key is to adopt the look when you’re in a rebellious frame of mind. Heavy-duty boots are a great way to add a metropolitan edge to a landed gentry aesthetic. Similarly, injecting a jolt of glamour — see Prince of Wales checked trouser suit worn with pin-sharp stilettos and slouchy V-neck T-shirt — is a fool-proof way to avoid looking twee.
The kilt, a favourite with Slimane, is a key component to this look. Team yours with knee-high boots — think round-toed and tubular — and an oversized sweater for a liberated and playful take on the bourgeoise lady who lunches. The full “new Celine” look also demands bed-head hair — see Danish modelling goddess Freja Beha Erichsen for inspiration and a look which no self-respecting member of the aristocracy could stomach.
It’s time to take back our tweeds.
