December! It’s joyful *and* triumphant. It’s a holly, jolly smorgasbord of wine, cheese, dancing, late nights, more wine and… oh! Spots. The big, grumpy kind, that brew up a storm on your chin, sit awkwardly under makeup and don’t seem willing to shift until after we ring in the new year. Not so jolly.
While it is the season of merriment, it’s also the time of year our skin tends to kick up a storm – there’s nothing like a ginormo zit to put a downer on Christmas proceedings, especially given how social it is. So to nip spots in the bud before they get the chance to flourish, we called on cosmetic doctor, Dr Meryvn Patterson, to give us the inside scoop on what causes yuletide breakouts and how to get them to back down.
This is the SOS cheat sheet you need to know.
What causes festive breakouts?
“Festive breakouts are caused by a combination of reasons ranging from increased stress levels and changes in weather, to poor diet habits, with too much sugar and sweet things like chocolate, through to the application of too much makeup and skincare routines that could at best be described as chaotic,” explains Dr Mervyn.
What can we do to stop a breakout before it gets going?
“Resist the temptation to over cleanse or exfoliate as this can simply strip away important lipids and dry the skin,” advises Dr Mervyn. “Disrupting the skin barrier in this way sets off further problems of oiliness, and inflammation risking further outbreaks. To tackle the problem, develop a good cleansing routine. Cleanse the skin with a salicylic wash [try Vichy’s Normaderm Deep Cleansing Purifying Gel, £13]. This has a deep pore cleansing effect whilst at the same time reducing inflammation without drying the skin.”
“At night our skin needs more help, especially at this time of year due to colder temperatures and indoor heating which can all affect our skin in a negative way (it can affect the skin’s barrier function and leave it vulnerable to dehydration). It is important that all traces of makeup are removed but also the external factors that have been beating against your skin all day, such as pollution and dirt are also removed,” says Dr Mervyn who recommends a thorough but gentle cleanse every evening and using a liquid exfoliator 2 or 3 times a week. Epionce’s Lytic Tx Retexturizing Lotion, £57.50, is highly recommended by dermatologists for treating skin imperfections, improving the skin’s texture and tone and keeping the skin looking smooth and clear.
“After, hydrate using a more intensive moisturiser for the night and (depending on your skin’s needs) a serum too, so your skin gets a dose of antioxidants as well as hydration. A moisturiser essentially seals the skin whist the antioxidants protect it.”
How can we indulge in the season without setting our skin off?
“Moderation is key, so enjoy, but just be mindful! A good diet with a spread of carbohydrates, protein, vitamins and minerals is what will deliver the best possible skin and a healthy body overall. As always, it’s not about eating an excess of any one thing but in finding the right proportions of things to achieve a healthy balance,” says Dr Mervyn.
“There are some studies that show a possible link to acne and the consumption of milk, particularly skimmed milk, and also carbohydrates with a high glycemic index (which means sweets, chocolates and alcohol too with its high sugar content). A balanced diet and a good skincare routine are key when it comes to healthy, clear skin.”
What should we do if we’ve got a fully fledged breakout the night before the office party?
“Start by cleansing the face. A salicylic acid cleanser (mentioned before) will help to loosen the build-up of dead skin cells that are blocking the pores. The best ones also help to repair the lipid abnormalities in the surface skin cells.”
“Then use a toner. Toners are of value for removing residual makeup, cell material in the pores and oils. Look for toners that effectively help to clear the pores but don’t strip the skin leaving it dry and taut,” says Dr Mervyn. It’s worth avoiding toners containing alcohol as this can be especially drying. Try La Roche Posay’s Physiological Soothing Toner, £12.50.
“Combinations of chemical exfoliants such as glycolic, salicylic, azelaic acids and retinol applied regularly to the skin help to combat pore blockages and act as antibacterial and anti-inflammatory skincare to prevent the formation of acne outbreaks. Retinoids are one of the most common ingredients used but sensitivity, dryness and skin peeling can limit their tolerability,” says Dr Mervyn.
If you’re not already sure your skin can handle it, you’re better off with a targeted spot treatment applied just to the areas that need it. Try Epionce Purifying Spot Gel, £38. “The key ingredients are sulphur, resorcinol and anti inflammatories,” says Dr Mervyn. “Simple small dots of the gel have been shown in clinical trials to be significantly faster acting and more effective than prescription alternatives.”
So there you have it – how to keep your skin behaving its best during the most indulgent, busy (and possible stressful) time of the year.
