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Balayage offers up beautifully multi-tonal colour and swooshes of sunshine through hair in an ultra-natural and low-maintenance way. That’s why it’s such a huge hit with so many.
For a nonchalant finish, the idea is to blend lighter pieces (two or three shades lighter than the rest of your hair) in amongst your strands with no harsh lines (the brighter colour tends to start further down your strands and blend in seamlessly), which means, if you don’t fancy the upkeep, you can grow it out easily with no need for more maintenance.
Because it involves bleach, balayage is serious business that, in general, is best left to the professionals. But if there were two people we trust to guide us through the process ourselves, it’s Alex Brownsell, veteran hair stylist and co-founder and creative director of Bleach London, and the experts at custom hair colour brand eSalon.
Want to try it the natural way at home first? Lemon juice can brighten up your strands when combined with a little sunshine.
How is balayage different from normal hair dye?
“Hair dye deposits colour into the hair follicle while highlighting [which Balayage is a form of] lifts colour from the cuticle,” explains Crystella Lopez, eSalon’s lead colourist. “Balayage is a French technique that means ‘to sweep,’” she adds.
“It involves bleaching your hair with blended highlights away from the root so it grows out naturally,” says Alex. “It’s not an overall colour, but it’s less meticulous than highlights, so it’s more achievable at home.” Essentially it “mimics the way hair naturally lightens in the sun, for a natural, subtle highlight,” adds Crystella. “The application looks really natural and there’s no need to maintain your roots,” says Alex, “which is why it’s so popular. After bleaching, you would go in with your toner or colour to create the final shade.”
Before you get cracking, make sure you have: “a mixing bowl, a tint brush, some clips to help with sectioning, some gloves and a comb for backcombing,” says Alex. “You can also use a balayage board or a piece of cardboard as a backer, which you’d place behind the hair sections as you apply the bleach,” she says. If not, use the back of a gloved hand to apply the bleach against. “I’d also recommend having an old t-shirt or towel to hand to avoid staining your favourite clothes, and a shower cap to wear whilst the bleach or dye processes.” And, of course, read through the instructions thoroughly.
Is there a particular type of dye that works best for balayage?
“Before dye, you need to start with bleach to lift the hair. This is what creates the dimension and shape – then you would use your colour or toner of choice,” explains Alex. “Even if you have dark hair and want a more subtle caramel balayage, the colour looks best if you use bleach followed by a toner rather than a tint, as bleach ‘bleeds’ less and creates
a more precise application.”
“For a classic, creamy balayage, I’d recommend our Champagne Blonde Bundle,” says Alex. For a bespoke colour, head to eSalon, where you can match their Light Set to your current hair colour to ensure it works with your existing shade.
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If we’re using bleach, how can we ensure we’re being careful, limiting damage and avoiding disasters?
Ask many colourists and they’ll advise against bleaching your hair at home, not only because it’s a tricky and fiddly process to perfect, but because messing around with chemicals, without knowing what you’re doing, can lead to damage – bleach can weaken the bonds in our hair which is why when not used correctly, it can lead to a lot of breakage.
“Do your research and read the instructions first, as it’s not a one-size-fits-all process,” stresses Alex. “Your hair texture, length, thickness and porosity all contribute to the final result.” If you’re unsure, it’s safer to gradually lighten your hair over multiple uses.
“I’d recommend using our Bleach Bundles which include our Plex Bleach Kit,” says Alex. “Plex Bleach lifts the hair while strengthening and protecting the hair health with an anti-breakage additive. Use the timer on your phone and regularly check the colour by scraping back some of the bleach with your tint brush.”
“Follow the recommended processing time in your expert step-by-step instructions to avoid any damage,” agrees Crystella. “And look for clay-based lighteners [like eSalon’s Light Set] as this allows you to apply the product to sections of hair and then lay it on unhighlighted hair without it transferring,” she adds. “Remember that everyone’s hair will have a yellow or brassy hue at first and this is corrected by toning, not by leaving the bleach on for longer,” warns Alex.
Are there any hair types that balayage doesn’t work well on?
“Balayage looks great on everyone, but if you already have very colour processed hair you should consider doing a strand test first,” says Alex. “If the hair condition is brittle or gummy after, it’s time to give your hair a break from colour and focus on care.”
How do we pick the right colour for our hair?
“Results will vary depending on how light or dark your current colour is and whether you have natural (virgin) or colour-treated hair,” says Crystella. In general a gentle balayage can lighten stands up to three shades brighter than your current colour with each use. Once brighter you can use a blue or purple toner to eliminate any brassiness and give a gorgeous creamy colour, you can add in a dye, like caramels or golds to contrast darker hair, or you can mix it up with a more experimental colour. “So many colours look great in a balayage,” says Alex. “If you want to experiment try one of our pastel or vibrant shades. My favourites right now are sunset or citrus shades, like Awkward Peach or Tangerine Dream.”
Before we get started, what prep should we do?
It’s essential to perform an allergy test before you use any dye or bleach (even one you’ve used previously) 48 hours beforehand. “Shampoo the night before, protect your clothes with a cape, old towel or wear an old T-shirt and lay everything out on the table so you can see everything,” says Crystella. “Make sure that you’ve familiarised yourself with each step of the process – from bleaching, to toning, colour and care,” says Alex. “If you don’t have someone to help with the application, set up a few mirrors so you can see the back of your head and all angles easily.”
What is the best technique for sectioning hair?
There’s a couple of ways for sectioning your hair, depending on how you wear it. If you wear your hair in a centre parting, “split the hair into 3 sections. Start with one large section at the bottom of your hair – from the top of the ears down to the nape of your neck, then two on top of the head, from the ears up and parted in the middle. Then work through each sectioned ‘third’, starting from the bottom,” says Alex.
If you wear your hair off-centre, “start by dividing your hair into a horseshoe shape just two inches above your temples around the crown and secure it in a top bun,” says Crystella. “After that section, divide hair into another horseshoe shape right below the temples, secure this section in a bun as well. The bottom and final area of your hair is where you will start with your application. Sound confusing? Have a look at this how-to video for help.
Where should we be applying balayage to and hat is the best technique for applying balayage to hair?
“The key with balayage is to use your tint brush to weave and zigzag through the hair and create smaller, thin sections. Then, gently backcomb this new section to secure the weave before applying the bleach. This prevents the bleach from applying with any obvious lines or chunky blocks, and instead creates the natural, soft root balayage effect,” says Alex. “To apply the bleach use a tint brush and your board, or use your hands to ‘smoosh’ the formula into the weaved section, softly smoothing it up to meet where the backcombed hair sits.” It’s very important not to go further than this, all the way up to the root as contact with your scalp can cause irritation. If you’re not very confident, take the dye only halfway up the strand to create more of a dip-dyed effect. Check out this step-by-step video for extra guidance.
What aftercare would you recommend?
Both experts recommend using a toner (like a silver or purple shampoo and conditioner) to maintain the tone of your hair and neutralise any brassiness. Now’s the time to amp up your care routine with ultra nourishing masks once a week, too.
