The ultimate foodie guide to North Wales

One of my new favourite driving routes starts with gin and ends with cheese.

If that sounds good to you, it starts off the A5 highway, near the Aber Falls waterfall, at a North West Welsh distillery of the same name. It is known for two things: one, that it produces both excellent Welsh dry and small-batch gins , and two, that its makers will also be revealing their first whisky before 2019 is up.

After a quick tour and sampling (only sips, mind, you have driving to do) it will be time to venture into lush Snowdonia, where you’ll drive past pearlescent grey-blue lakes near Capel Curig, harsh rock faces and wiry grasslands. Next, at the pretty former mining village of Betws-y-Coed, bear right and head down the A470 towards Llechwedd Slate Caverns.

But how do cheese and caves connect? Well, the dark and moist environment of these underground spaces make ideal spots for maturing cheese, to give it extra richness. And it is here, in two slate basements near the village of Blaenau Ffestiniog, that the farmer-owned dairy co-operative, South Caernarfon Creameries, chooses to age its award-winning Dragon cheddar. 

In three days of driving, I discovered that this region is home to countless other quality food and drink producers worth visiting or supporting. There is Gwinllan Conwy Vineyard where Colin and Charlotte Bennett produce award-winning sparkling wine, Hooton’s Homegrown farm shop on Anglesey where you can pick up goodies including Welsh lamb burgers, and of course chef Bryn Williams’ whose restaurant at Port Eirias is place to feast on bowls of Menai Strait mussels.

If you base yourself at Bodnant’s Welsh Food Centre in Tal-y-cafn you’ll have a view over the gorgeous River Conwy. Cottage rooms there also come complete with a fridge, meaning you can drive around all day knowing you’ll be able to keep your purchases chilled later on – although do give Castle Taxis a call if you plan to tour the vineyard.

Besides feasting on delicious food and drink during your visit, creators of the fare in this part of the world not only have a strong sense of patriotism, but riotously good wit – expect a few belly laughs while there.

Here is a guide to some of the area’s best food and drink spots.

The best produce shops in North Wales

For delicious cheese

South Caernarfon Creameries

We didn’t expect to find a stack of cheddar maturing inside the space usually reserved for tourists doing tours of the slate caves. But that’s exactly what the South Caernarfon Creameries do. The co-operative of dairies makes its fantastic Dragon’s cheddar using milk from mid and West Wales, before before taking it down there to mature for a minimum of 11 months. Try a cave tour (£12.50-20 depending on group size) which goes past these, and remember to collect a sample in the souvenir shop afterwards.

Available to purchase on-site at Slate Mountain gift shop, or in selected Sainsbury supermarkets. sccwales.co.uk

Snowdonia Cheese

Now an established business, Snowdonia cheese company’s best known product is a boisterous but creamy creamy cheddar called the Black Bomber. You’ll see it sold in farm shops and delis across the country, including Bodnant Welsh Food Centre (see below).

You can also find stockists online at snowdoniacheese.co.uk/

Castell Gwyn Cheese

After trying various careers before finding her true passion for cheesemaking, Jackie Whittaker now collects milk from a North Welsh dairy every morning before pasteurising it and producing her fresh cheese on nearby Anglesey island. She used to make Camembert but is now focusing on trying not to sell out of her soft cheeses, including the supremely good cracked black pepper flavour.

These are available on the website or from the small shop counter at Gwinllan Conwy Vineyard (see below). castellgwyn.com/

For small-batch booze

Aber Falls Distillery

The director of this distillery in Abergwyngregyn spent 10 years working for major alcohol distributor, Halewood International, in nearby Liverpool before branching out to start producing Welsh gin own under the group’s umbrella. Of the six-strong range of flavoured gins made with Welsh malted barley and water from nearby Aber Falls Rivers, the two classics are superb: the Welsh dry gin has a gorgeous citrus edge, and the small batch Welsh gin is both peppery with hints of lavender, and works well with Lamb and Watt’s tonics. Their new whisky will also be available later this year. Tours cost £8 for groups of up to 12 people, include tastings and are offered Thursday to Sunday, and the gin is available to buy on-site or at stockists across Wales.

Aber Falls Distillery, Station Road, Abergwyngregyn, North Wales, LL33 0LB. aberfallsdistillery.com/

Gwinllan Conwy Vineyard

This tiny vineyard was started in 2012 by Colin and Charlotte Bennett who have since expanded their site to three acres. They now produce award-winning wines, including the fabulous Pefriog sparkling, a rose, the Solaris and Pydew dry whites, and the Rondo red. Colin, full of beans, knowledgeable and infectiously passionate about what he does, might easily have been a comedian in his past life – but sadly he isn’t available to lead every tour as he still has a full-time job. Still, do ask for him in case he’s around.

Tours and tastings are £15 and held Tuesday to Saturdays. Buy the wine on-site, at Bodnant Welsh Food Centre or on the menu at Dylans restaurants (see below).

Gwinllan Conwy Vineyard, y Gwinwydd, Llangwstenin, Conwy, North Wales, LL31 9JF. gwinllanconwy.co.uk

For tantalising Welsh produce

Bodnant Welsh Food Centre

Following catastrophic debts under the previous ownership, this iconic Welsh food shop and cookery school faced closure last year. That is until a friendly local entrepreneur Richard Reynolds bought the property, spruced it up, replaced the restaurant with a great cafe, and reformed relationships with nearby food suppliers. If you stay in one of the spacious cottages, make sure you have a bacon and egg sandwich for breakfast in the cafe, before stocking up on the supreme array of Welsh produce in the farm shop. There’s a strong range of local cheeses, sausages, honeys, and freshly baked bread, plus a booze selection that includes local ales, gins and that Conwy sparkling wine.

Bodnant Welsh Food Centre; Furnace Farm, Tal-y-cafn, Conwy LL28 5RP. bodnant-welshfood.co.uk/

Hooton’s Homegrown, Anglesey

A fabulous shop offering an array of things grown, reared or prepared on the family farm, including delicious Welsh lamb and mint burgers, sweet carrots and a sweet sour rhubarb relish. There is also an entire trolley dedicated to sea salt from nearby Halon Mon, teeth-sticking peanut brittle from Scarlett Angel, and a good cheese selection, including the aforementioned Black Bomber.

Gwydryn Hir, Brynsiencyn, Llanfairpwllgwyngyll LL61 6HQ. hootonshomegrown.co.uk/

The best restaurants to visit in North Wales

For fish with a view: Bryn Williams at Port Eirias

A stunning restaurant in every respect: service delivered by a friendly and knowledgable team, gorgeous views, and sensational food and wine that proves how simply presented fish and seafood is sometimes the best. If they’re available, don’t leave without tasting some Menai Strait mussels – collected by three dredgers just a few minutes’ across the water – or the roasted prawns, with garlic, chilli and seaweed mayonnaise, which is one of my top dishes of 2019. Meanwhile Williams’ baked Alaska – containing fluffy meringue and even a jam Roly Poly in the middle – is second to none. If you’re not around for dinner you’ll also find a delightful afternoon tea here.

Bryn Williams at Port Eirias, Promenade, Colwyn Bay LL29 8HH. portheirias.com/

For friendly service: The Boathouse, Anglesey

This very relaxed beachside restaurant combines the friendliness of a local pub and a cafe with smiling, efficient staff, and a straightforward menu of classics. The fish pie comes in a portion big enough for two and topped with a mountain of mozzarella, there are more Menai Strait mussels plus a stack of homemade cakes. After lunch, grab an ice cream from the hut outside, and take it for a stroll along the sea.

The Boathouse, 1 Penrorsedd Terrace, Red Wharf Bay, Pentraeth LL75 8RJ. boathouseredwharfbay.co.uk/

For beach house vibes: Dylans Menai Straits branch

A growing group that locals say “has upped the game in the area” since it was started in 2012 by Robin Hodgson and David Evans. Of the three outposts, the great room at the Llandudno branch makes it feel somewhat daunting to eat in, plus the food is inconsistent, while the Menai Bridge branch is cosier, with a great view over the harbour. Try the smoked mackerel pate.

Dylan’s Menai Bridge, St. George’s Road, Menai Bridge, Anglesey, LL59 5EY. dylansrestaurant.co.uk/

Victoria Stewart was a guest of Food & Drink Wales. businesswales.gov.wales/foodanddrink/