The new decade is
one of uncertainty and complexity, but also of limitless possibilities. It
is these social tensions which will determine the trends of spring-summer
2021, according to trend analyst Christine Boland. Boland presented an
extensive trend breakdown for the season this week during a seminar
organized by Appletizer in Pakhuis de Zwijger.
“This decade will be decisive,” Boland said. “The world can go two ways:
towards power display, exclusion, polarization and black-and-white
thinking, or towards empathy, creativity and dreams.” According to Boland,
this ambiguity translates into design, lifestyle and the catwalks, where
both social criticism and idealism are important themes. Here are
FashionUnited’s five trends that are characteristic of the new season.
Power display
The discussion about global power relations has emphatically shifted to
the catwalk. For example, Balenciaga’s SS20 show took place in a
self-constructed, fictional European Parliament. In the spring of 2021,
fashion and design specifically refer to male displays of power, with broad
shoulders, square shapes, and references to utility wear and the uniform in
‘European blue’ or in neutral tones.
SS20 and Balmain SS20. Image:
Catwalkpictures
Protest and rebellion
A more pronounced rejection of ‘the system’ also manifests itself in
fashion, with elements borrowed from the demonstration or protest culture.
The trend is characterised by a provocative mix of influences and materials
that turn fashion upside down, with bright, aggressive colours – or rainbow
colours – as well as striking texts and tapes. As inspiration for the
trend, Boland mentioned environmental activist Greta Thunberg and protest
movements such as Extinction Rebellion.
SS20 and Burberry SS20. Image:
Catwalkpictures
The beauty of reuse
The urgent problems of over-consumption, waste surplus and the impending
climate crisis encourage entrepreneurs to transform waste into something
new and beautiful. Recycled plastic is increasingly becoming a key material
for new products. Its colours and shapes can also inspire new textures and
patterns. For example, fishnet structures recur in clothing and
accessories, as well as brightly coloured, marble-like patterns, like fused
plastic.
McCartney SS20 and Jil Sander SS20. Image:
Catwalkpictures
In harmony with nature
“Mother Nature is the role model for the new decade,” said Boland. A
renewed connection with nature is central to SS21. Typical for this is the
interest in life in the countryside, in direct contact with nature –
preferably also self-sufficient living (think for example of the film The
Biggest Little Farm). In fashion and design, this is expressed in attention
to natural materials such as wood and reeds as well as ticking stripes and
lace.
Dior SS20 and Chloé SS20. Image:
Catwalkpictures
Plenty of flowers
In line with the new love of nature lies a fascination with flowers. “Of
course, flowers are always there”, Boland agrees, “but this season it’s
especially about exotic, sculptural flowers that look almost like animal
prints, and their counterparts: simple meadow flowers”. Also an innovation
in the field of flowers: complete outfits in floral print, like a walking
field of flowers.
SS20. Image: Catwalkpictures
This article was originally published on FashionUnited.nl
before being translated to English
Main article image: Burberry SS20, courtesy of
