So, what to do with all the courgettes? Well, we could take a vegetable peeler to them then toss the long thin shavings into a pan of frothing butter and fry them until golden, add a squeeze of lemon and a palmful of thyme leaves. We could cut others into rounds and cook them in a shallow pan with olive oil and, at the last minute, a shower of torn basil leaves. Or we could halve the thinnest lengthways and grill them before putting them on the table with a bowl of mustard and tarragon mayonnaise.
Others might prefer to grate them into a dressing of white-wine vinegar and crushed mint or squash them into thin patties with basil, grated feta and a beaten egg then fry until crisp and golden. Given a few small ones, I would dip them in a light tempura batter, then drop them into deep, bubbling oil and eat them with shavings of sushi ginger and ponzu sauce. Of course, you could always lightly flour and fry them, then serve the golden coins with cream cheese speckled with chopped tarragon.
This time, we made them into a confit, a slow-cooked and chutney-textured preserve with lemon, black peppercorns and garlic. The jammy tangle was meant to accompany cheese, but instead we piled the result on toasted baguettes then, a few days later, tossed the rest of the jar into twists of steaming trofie pasta.
Any that are really too old and large can be grated and used in place of potatoes in a tortilla, and those too tiny to ripen can be eaten raw in a salad with chopped dill and thin slices of smoked salmon. I would stir a little smooth mustard and the merest smudge of honey into the dressing, too. We mustn’t forget to bake a few either, tucking them around the roast chicken as you might a potato, letting their cut edges caramelise, their hot and sweet juices bursting as you bite.
Courgette and lemon confit
Will keep in the fridge for four weeks.
Makes 1 medium-sized storage jar
courgettes 600g, large
lemon juice 150ml (about 2 lemons)
olive oil 150ml
thyme 6 sprigs
rosemary 4 sprigs
garlic 6 cloves
fennel seeds 1 tsp
black peppercorns 20
Wipe the courgettes, then cut them in half lengthways. Slice each half into pieces about 1cm thick.
Put the lemon juice, olive oil and 150ml of water into a wide, shallow pan. Add the sliced courgettes, the whole thyme and rosemary sprigs, the garlic and bring to the boil. Scatter in the fennel seeds, peppercorns and a teaspoon of salt.
As the liquid boils, lower to a simmer and cover with a lid. Cook for 30 minutes, until the courgettes are soft. Remove the lid, stir the courgettes, then simmer gently for a further half hour, moving them around with a wooden spoon every 5 minutes or so. When the courgettes are tender, transfer, together with any juices, to a sterilised, air-tight storage jar. Then leave to cool and refrigerate.
Courgette confit with goats’ milk cheese
A splendid sandwich.
Serves 2
courgette confit (above) 6 heaped tbsp
baguette 1, small
goat’s milk cheese 8 slices
Split the baguette in half and then into short pieces. Toast lightly, just until the cut edges turn pale gold, under a hot grill, then spoon on the confit. Slice the cheese and place on top of the toasts.
Trofie with courgette confit and parmesan
There are many creamy or cheesy pasta sauces. This one, fresh, light and sweet-sour goes towards redressing the balance.
Serves 2 trofie or other small pasta twists 200g
courgette confit (above) 300g
parmesan 4 tbsp
Bring a deep pan of water to the boil, salt generously, then rain in the trofie. Cook the pasta for 9 minutes or until al dente.
Put the confit into a small pan and bring almost to the boil. Grate the parmesan. Drain the pasta, leaving a tbsp or two of water in the pot. Stir in the confit and half the parmesan, then divide between 2 warm bowls. Scatter over the remaining cheese and eat immediately.
Griddled courgettes with labneh
Crisp slices of courgette deserve a soft and savoury dip to accompany them. Hummus, smooth and garlic-scented, smoked cod’s roe whipped to the texture of ice-cream or, as I made this week, a strained yogurt flecked with lemon thyme, garlic and sesame.
Serves 4
yogurt 500g
courgette 1, large
garlic 2 cloves
lemon thyme leaves 2 tsp
olive oil 4 tbsp
golden sesame seeds 1 tsp
black sesame seeds 1 tsp
parsley, chives, tarragon 3 tbsp, mixed and chopped
Line a sieve or colander with muslin and place over a deep mixing bowl. Scrape the yogurt into the sieve and leave for a good 3 or 4 hours, in a very cool place, to drain.
Set the oven at 200C/gas mark 6. Wipe the courgette and cut into diagonal slices ½cm thick. Line a grill pan or baking sheet with foil and place the slices in a single layer, their edges not touching.
Peel and slice the garlic, then mix with the lemon thyme leaves and olive oil. Brush the courgette with the herb oil then bake for 20-25 minutes, turning once. Remove the slices to a large serving plate, reserving their cooking juices.
Toast all the sesame seeds in a dry, nonstick pan and set aside. Stir the parsley, chives and tarragon into the juices together with the toasted seeds.
Spoon the strained labneh on the plate with the courgettes then trickle over the herb and sesame oil.
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