London Fashion Week Mens SS20: these are the jackets you’ll be wearing next spring

The London Fashion Week Men’s runways were awash with amazing outerwear. Read on for the eight styles to know

1. The cocktail jacket

Craig Green has long perfected his signature uniform of quilted worker jackets and utilitarian trousers. Now, the designer has given fans of his brand a go-to for cocktail hour. At yesterday’s show, satin jackets in jewel shades were embroidered with what appeared on closer inspection to be muscle groups and looked set to steal the spotlight as far as trophy eveningwear is concerned. Even on a catwalk full of tissue-thin outfits detailed with papercutting patterns and statement patchwork coats, they had no trouble standing out.

2. The denim jacket

In a collection that sought to delve deep into the identity of modern man, the denim jacket emerged as a staple. Boxy cut with carpenter-style patch pockets, Bianca Saunders’ interpretation of a classic is durable, easy to wear, and also decidedly luxurious. Expect to see it teamed with tailored trousers and even as dinner party attire next season.

3. The true blue

For those in search of a classic, the buck stops with Oliver Spencer — his dedication to wardrobe building blocks is unrivalled on the London schedule. For next season this means perfectly pitched bombers in oversized checks and an updated version of the mac, a dream fo those who want outerwear that

suits all occasions. Elsewhere, A-Cold-Wall presented transparent trenches in blue hues.

4. The track top

The great Irish seaside served as a backdrop for Robyn Lynch’s latest collection under Fashion East but the result was more Miami Beach club than camping in County Kerry. Pastel shades and terry towelling was presented alongside chunky knits and stacked sandals but the track top

was this show’s high point. Expect to wear them layered over everything next summer — especially if an escape to Ireland takes your fancy.

5. The trench

The notes for Khalid Al Qasimi’s latest show cited the “ongoing political tension in the Middle East” and his childhood growing up in the United Arab Emirates as its inspiration. As a result, his was a nomadic urban aesthetic, with coarse military canvases at this collection’s core and some garments riveted together to mimic the nuts and bolts of armoured vehicles. Unsurprisingly, the trench coat also played a starring role, presented in contrasting fabrics spanning heavy-duty leather or breezy linen in sunbleached shades.

6. The raincoat

There wasn’t a cloud in the sky when Patrick Grant showcased his latest spring/summer collection for E Tautz on Saturday but the dry spell didn’t last long. Thankfully, the wet-weather options for next season are strong, with Grant updating a lightweight parka for contemporary consumers. For the full high-summer experience opt for light colourway — cornflour blue is ideal — and team with coral.

7. The puffer

For a second time, Liam Hodges teamed up with Italian sports giant Ellesse for a low-fi sci-fi take on heritage sportswear the designer dubbed “Boris Becker meets Tron”. That means you can keep your puffer jacket for another year. Or, in the case of Hodges, your puffer gilet, layered over a matching shellsuit, topped off with a bucket hat and finished with Velcro kicks.

8. The cagoule

Charles Jeffrey — club kid turned British menswear disrupter — is renowned for the loud, proud and gender-blending outpouring of his Loverboy label. For his next trick, however, The British Library was the venue for a collection that served as a quieter act of rebellion. In place of flashy suits and jumpers of joy were clothes presented “as physical, visceral responses to societal change.” Outerwear was abundant and designed to provide protection, from hard vinyl macs and padded ponchos to the humble all-weather cagoule. The bold striped motif on the latter, however, revealed Jeffrey’s more serious side isn’t without a sense of fun.