Spices never really go off, but they do lose potency and flavour. Where possible, buy spices whole, because they last up to four years and will always be fresher than ready-ground. And store them in airtight jars, out of direct sunlight, to prolong their life.
If a spice does grow old, don’t give up – it can be revived with heat. Dry roast whole spices until they smell aromatic and pop, then add to a dish or grind. To bring ground spices back to life, heat them in a dry pan or some oil, with or without onions, but be careful they don’t catch and burn.
If you do have a load of spices that are growing old and need using up, there are lots of spice-heavy recipes you can draw on. Make your own garam masala or ras el hanout, say, and apply liberally to traditional or your own recipes. Or try dukkah, an Egyptian dip made with toasted spices, nuts and seeds. The toasting revives their flavour and crunch, so it’s a great way to use up ingredients that seem past their best. Make up your own variations using whatever nuts and spices you have to hand.
Dukkah
This scrumptious, spicy and crunchy dip is quick to make, and although it wouldn’t last five minutes in my house, it will keep indefinitely if stored in an airtight jar. To eat it, dip bread first into extra-virgin oil and then into the dukkah, coating the bread with a crunchy outer layer. Makes about 1 x 150g jar.
50g nuts (hazelnuts, walnuts, etc)
3½ tbsp warm spices – coriander seeds, cumin seeds, etc
40g sesame (or other) seeds
1 big pinch dried herbs ( thyme, oregano, marjoram, herbes de Provence, za’atar)
1 tsp sea salt
Extra-virgin olive oil and flatbread or pitta, to serve
Put the nuts on an oven tray and roast at 210C (190C fan)/410F/gas 6½ for three minutes. Add the spices and return to the oven for five minutes, alongside sesame (or other) seeds on a second tray. Remove and leave to cool, then crush everything except the seeds in a mortar, spice grinder or blender. Stir in a sprinkling of the herbs and a generous teaspoon of salt, and serve with oil and flatbread.
