The topic of mashed potato started a heated debate among my colleagues. Half of them insisted it had to be creamy, buttery and have absolutely no lumps, while the rest preferred a little more texture, some crisp skin for character and, daringly, olive oil instead of butter.
To dodge taking sides, I’ve instead focused today on slightly unusual uses for mash: stuffed, rolled and riced. With different techniques, mash can be as light and airy as you want it, or as hefty and starchy as you need it to be. There is no wrong way to mash a potato, then; only multiple right ways to serve a purpose.
Lamb and potato chap (pictured above)
This is an Iraqi street food of mashed potato stuffed with a spiced, usually meat-based filling, a bit like a bite-sized Middle Eastern shepherd’s pie. The lamb filling is particularly special thanks to the spice mix, and is so good you can also serve it just as it is with plain rice or mash.
Prep 15 min
Cook 1 hr 15 min
Serves 6-8 as a snack
1kg baking potatoes, peeled and cut into roughly 4cm pieces
1 tbsp olive oil
1 large whole egg, plus 1 egg yolk
75g panko
300ml sunflower oil, for frying
150g Greek-style yoghurt
For the filling
½ tsp chilli flakes
¾ tbsp fenugreek seeds
2 tsp coriander seeds
¾ tsp turmeric
2 tsp caster sugar
60ml lemon juice
Salt and black pepper
1½ tbsp olive oil
1 onion, peeled and finely chopped
370g 20%-fat lamb mince
1½ tbsp tomato paste
20g fresh coriander, roughly chopped
In a small pan, dry-fry the chilli, fenugreek and coriander seeds on a medium-high heat for three minutes, or until fragrant, then add the turmeric and toast for 20 seconds more. Transfer to a spice grinder and blitz to a smooth powder.
Tip into a bowl, add the sugar, three tablespoons of lemon juice, 60ml water and half a teaspoon of salt, whisk to combine, then set aside for 15-20 minutes – the fenugreek will start to absorb the liquid and the mixture will thicken slightly.
Meanwhile, put the oil in a large frying pan on a medium-high heat and, once hot, add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, for about eight minutes, until well-browned. Add the lamb, and cook, stirring to break apart the meat, for 12 minutes, until nicely browned. Add the tomato paste, half the fenugreek mixture, half a teaspoon of salt and plenty of pepper, cook for four minutes, then turn off the heat. Stir in the coriander and last tablespoon of lemon juice, and leave to cool.
Meanwhile, put the potatoes in a medium saucepan for which you have a lid, and add enough water to cover by about 3cm. Add two teaspoons of salt and bring to a boil. Lower the heat to medium-low, cover and leave to cook for 12 minutes, until soft. Drain very well, then pat the potatoes with a tea towel to make sure they’re very dry.
Transfer to a large bowl with the oil, three-quarters of a teaspoon of salt and a good grind of pepper, and use a masher to work into a smooth mash. Add the whole egg, egg yolk and panko, mix to combine, then leave to cool for about 10 minutes.
With lightly oiled hands, roll the potato mix into 45g balls – you should end up with about 20 in all. Use your index finger to make a slight well in the centre of each ball, then put a heaped tablespoon of the meat filling in the cavity. Seal by pinching the potato over the filling and rolling it back into a ball, then press into a 2cm-thick and 5-6cm-diameter patty. Smooth over any cracks with your fingers and put on a tray while you repeat with the remaining potato balls and filling.
Put the sunflower oil in a large saute pan on a medium-high heat and, once it’s quite hot, shallow fry the patties in three to four batches for about five minutes in total per batch, gently flipping them once halfway, until golden and crisp. Transfer to a tray lined with kitchen paper and repeat with the rest of the patties.
Mix the yoghurt and remaining fenugreek mixture in a small bowl. Serve the potato chap warm or at room temperature with the yoghurt alongside for dipping.
Potato spirals with tomato salsa and creme fraiche
These are made from a dough of mashed potato, cheese and polenta that bakes into a crisp, delicious snack. Save time by microwaving the potatoes for 15-20 minutes, until soft, instead of baking them. Don’t throw away the hollowed-out skins: mix them with a little oil and bake to make a great nibble or crunchy salad topping.
Prep 15 min
Cook 1 hr 50 min
Serves 6 as a snack
1 tbsp olive oil, for greasing
80g creme fraiche, to serve
For the mashed potato dough
2 large baking potatoes, skin on and poked all over with a fork (650g net weight)
20g unsalted butter, softened
30g quick-cook polenta
40g mature cheddar, finely grated
Salt
For the salsa
2 plum tomatoes, very finely chopped
1 tsp oregano leaves, finely chopped
1 tsp lemon juice
2 tbsp olive oil
1 small garlic clove, peeled and finely chopped
Heat the oven to 220C (200C fan)/425F/gas 7. Put the potatoes on an oven tray lined with baking paper and bake for an hour, turning them once halfway, until cooked through (this will take longer the larger your potatoes are), then remove and leave to cool.
Meanwhile, mix all the salsa ingredients in a small serving bowl with an eighth of a teaspoon of salt.
When the potatoes are cool enough to handle, cut them in half lengthways and scoop the flesh into a large bowl (reserve the skins for another use – see introduction); you should have about 350g potato flesh. Mash this very well, then chill for 20 minutes.
Stir the remaining dough ingredients and a half-teaspoon of salt into the mash, then form into a smooth ball – it will have the consistency of play-dough.
Grease two large rectangles of baking paper and lightly grease them with olive oil. Put the “dough” ball on one piece of paper and press it out into a rough rectangle. Cover with the other piece of paper, then use a rolling pin to roll it out into a 35cm x 25cm rectangle about 3mm thick.
Transfer to a large tray, carefully peel off the top sheet of paper, then bake for 16 minutes, until the underside is very nicely browned. Leave to cool for a few minutes, then, while it’s still warm, tightly roll up the sheet of crisped potato and cut into 4cm pieces.
Arrange the potato spirals on a plate and serve with the salsa and a bowl of creme fraiche alongside.
Riced potatoes with anchovy butter
These are essentially deconstructed mashed potatoes. Ricing the spuds with the butter and cream, rather than mashing them, makes them light and airy, and gives you a completely different experience. And get everything ready first, because you need to work very quickly once the potatoes are cooked.
Prep 20 min
Cook 35 min
Serves 4 as a side
10g unsalted butter
20 sage leaves
Salt and black pepper
1kg yukon gold potatoes (or Rooster, if unavailable), peeled and cut into 3-4cm chunks
60ml double cream
1 generous grating fresh nutmeg
For the anchovy butter
130g unsalted butter, well softened at room temperature
1 tbsp white miso
4 anchovy fillets, drained and finely chopped
3 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
1 lemon – zest grated, to get 2 tsp, and juiced, to get 1 tbsp
1½ tbsp fresh parsley leaves, finely chopped
Put all the anchovy butter ingredients in a bowl, add a generous grind of pepper, mix with a fork, then set aside at room temperature.
Put 10g butter in a small frying pan on a medium-high heat and, once melted, add the sage and a tiny pinch of salt. Fry, stirring often, for three minutes, until deep green but not brown. Transfer to a plate lined with kitchen towel, to crisp up.
Put the potatoes and a tablespoon of salt in a medium saucepan for which you have a lid, add enough water to cover by about 4cm and bring to a boil. Turn the heat to medium-low, cover loosely and simmer for 15 minutes, until the potatoes are easily pierced with a fork, but not mushy. Drain, and shake to make sure the potatoes are dry.
Meanwhile, put the cream, nutmeg and a pinch of salt in a small saute pan on medium heat, warm through gently, then keep warm on a low heat.
Melt the anchovy butter in the microwave (or in a small pan on a medium heat), just to heat through, then keep warm on a low heat.
Working quickly now, pass the hot potatoes through a potato ricer directly on to a platter, so they are well spread out. Spoon the anchovy butter all over the top, followed by the cream mix, top with the crisp sage and serve immediately.
