Lifestyle

Why Club Med in the French Alps is the perfect winter family escape


I keep my eyes fixed on the horizon as the cable car comes to a clanking halt at Pic Blanc. The 3,300-metre peak is the highest point in Alpe d’Huez, the sun-kissed mountain pasture that is a winter oasis for skiers and a regular stop on the Tour de France, and I’m no lover of heights.

To the east, the skyline is studded with magnificent peaks including Mont Blanc. To the west, the Massif Central stretches as far as the eye can see. But we weren’t here just to appreciate the view. Our instructor, Marie, decided her rusty band of skiing intermediates were ready to take on La Sarenne…the longest black run in the Alps. That might explain why I’m already short of breath as I inch towards the cliff-edge marking the start of the 18km-long run.

My legs and lungs burn as I concentrate on picking a line that will somehow keep me from careering headlong down the slope. Somehow, we come through the steepest section unscathed.


In truth, most of La Sarenne isn’t that tough, comprising of steeper red-like sections and gentle blue-like stretches. The last 5km is a more-or-less flat cruise through a forest. Still, a black’s a black, so the sense of achievement was considerable. That afternoon, we wandered off piste onto a rocky outcrop to enjoy some wine, cheese and saucisson which Marie (one of the Club Med instructors) magically produced from her backpack. The red, a delicious Beaujolais, was from her very own vineyard near Lyon, which she runs in the off-season.

Like most of Club Med’s all-inclusive Alpine properties, it’s ski-in-ski-out resort, which means minimum fuss and maximum time on the slopes. My wife, two-year-old son and I arrived on Sunday lunchtime after a two-hour transfer from Grenobles to be welcomed by one of the hotel’s GOs –Gentils Organisateurs. Having donned our all-important wristbands, we registered for a week’s ski lessons and got kitted out with our gear, all included in the upfront cost.

It helps if your child is happy to be left in the kids club for the day. Ours hated it, despite the best efforts of the wonderful team at the Petit Club, which did limit the amount of skiing slightly, though it seemed we were in the unlucky minority. Ski lessons are provided for children age three and up. Finlay being only two, we bought a sledge from the nearest ski shop in town, a ten-minute walk from the hotel, which was loads of fun. He also loved trudging around in the foot-deep snow, something he’d only heard and seen in picture books.

Even if you’re not a ski addict, there’s plenty to keep guests occupied, with a gym, pool, steam room and outdoor hot tub. A large lounge offers plenty of quiet spots to relax with a good book, while films are shown on a massive screen.

(Club Med)

And there’s always the bar, where a decent selection of beer, wines and spirits are available “sans frais supplémentaires”. The lounge comes alive in the evenings, with live music, DJs and shows on the massive stage, often tongue-in-cheek productions involving staff who seem to relish the chance to live out their West End musical fantasies. It’s also a great place to meet other families, with plenty of space for children to run around, making friends of their own while mums and dads enjoy a relaxing drink. 

Meals are served in a huge restaurant on the first floor which, like most of the common areas, are bathed in sunshine during the day thanks to the huge ground-to-ceiling windows looking onto the slopes. The buffet has a vast selection that changes daily, including delicious classic French favourites like lamb with boulangere potatoes, melted raclette  and rôti de bœuf. There’s plenty to keep the kids happy too, including delicious sourdough pizzas, pasta and a well-stocked ice cream counter. If you want a more intimate dinner, head to gourmet lounge, which stocks an impressive range of Savoie wines.

Snacks and canapes are also served in the lounge and on the balcony, with cake at 4pm, perfectly-timed after a day on the slopes.

(Club Med)

Having maxed out on the sport and apres-ski, you’ll appreciate the cosy rooms and the unbelievably comfortable beds, which are said to be king size but seem bigger. Every room also comes with a bathtub, double sinks and a balcony for enjoying the beautiful alpine views or gazing at the stars.

People used to think Club Med was all about sun, sea and sex. In the past decade, the brand has reinvented itself as a luxury offering, adding a touch of French class to the all-inclusive concept. Alpe d’Huez is a fine example of that: a relaxed, super-friendly, family-orientated retreat that children and adults will be more than happy to spend the week in. I hope one day we can say “rebonjour”.

Details

Seven nights all-inclusive at Club Med Alpe d’Huez from £1,980 per adult (based on double occupancy) with return flights from London departing on March 22, 2020, transfers and lift passes included. Book now at clubmed.co.uk or call 020 3893 3894. 

EasyJet flies from Gatwick, Stansted and Luton to Grenoble, from £18.99 one-way. easyjet.com.



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