TV

Why Amazon and Netflix's 'Project Runway' copycats can't make it work like the original


The secret to the success of “Project Runway,” as it turns out, was never about Heidi Klum and Tim Gunn.

Don’t get me wrong, the supermodel and fashion instructor were a huge part of what made “Runway,” a reality competition show in which designers compete for a cash prize, a success in the first place. Klum, the series’ host from 2004 to 2017, brought her star power, her personal fashion and her clipped delivery of “auf wiedersehen” to departing contestants. Gunn, a longtime fashion professor and “Runway” mentor during that same period, had warmth, know-how and the series’ most durable quote: “Make it work.” 

When the pair announced they were leaving “Runway” for a new fashion series on Amazon, it appeared to mark the death of the aging series. But instead, a refresh, with model Karlie Kloss stepping in as host and “Runway” winner Christian Siriano as mentor, has revitalized the series, which returned to its original network, Bravo.

As for Klum and Gunn’s new series? “Making the Cut,” released on Amazon March 27, unfortunately doesn’t make it work. 

“Cut” debuted just two months after Netflix tried its hand at clothing design-inspired reality TV in the form of “Next in Fashion,” hosted by “Queer Eye” stylist Tan France and designer/writer Alexa Chung. Both series might as well be hawked alongside “Jucci” and “Fendy” bags in Times Square as blatant (and unsuccessful) knockoffs of “Runway.”

What has become quite clear, after sitting through the dull episodes of “Cut” and the excruciatingly terrible episodes of “Fashion,” is that unlike, say, food or dating series, there aren’t that many ways to make fashion reality TV. Each new series tries its very best to differentiate itself from “Runway,” but the basic model (pun intended) remains: Designers are challenged to make garments , they put on a runway show, are judged and one goes home. Roll credits. 

The two new series tout the experience and credentials of their contestants – who are further along in their careers than the usual newbies on “Runway” – and their highly produced runway shows. But the established designers name-dropping Jay-Z and other celebrities is tiresome, as is their disdain for the menial labor of sewing their own designs.  

More: ‘Project Runway’ contestant goes viral after bringing up the Kushners to host Karlie Kloss

“Fashion” also starts by putting its designers in teams, making it impossible to tell where one aesthetic ends and another begins. An emotional connection with contestants is key to building audience loyalty in any reality show (producers of “Survivor,” “The Bachelor” and “Top Chef” all keenly understand this). Both shows have a piecemeal judging process – “Cut” details the work of a few designers each week without their designs next to them. “Fashion” judges, in small groups, awkwardly offer criticism backstage to a handful of good and bad teams. Both strategies make it hard to keep track of who made what look in each episode. 

Gunn and Klum are their usual sweet selves on “Cut,” but “Fashion” has little in the way of charm. France and Chung, while appealing personalities in other contexts, are cringe-worthy as they try to make terrible jokes. 

“Cut” marks the biggest departure from “Runway,” by allowing its designers to use seamstresses to help complete their looks in the short time frame. But this is also its biggest mistake. 

Yes, most major fashion designers don’t sew their own garments, but audiences aren’t tuning in to see what really happens in the Prada factories. Bobby Flay doesn’t cook in every restaurant he owns, either, but when he shows up to compete on “Iron Chef,” we expect him to roll up his sleeves and fry a steak.

Keeping the seamstresses invisible (the designers leave instructions and the workers sew overnight, off-camera) feels icky, almost like an exploitation of labor. Considering that winning designs are instantly available to buy on Amazon, worker treatment is likely not what the retail giant wants us to think of during what’s essentially a  clothing commercial masquerading as a series. 

More: Heidi Klum, Tim Gunn on why ‘Making the Cut’ is the perfect escape amid coronavirus

Both shows try to create “global brands,” but most viewers don’t want corporate-speak when they come to view pretty clothes. This isn’t “The Apprentice.” It’s hard to imagine a series selling out more than “Runway,” which is infamous for its near-constant product placement, but the way Amazon has tasked non-commercial designers with making utilitarian garments designed for the huge online retailer is its own form of frustration. These people don’t want to do these tasks, so why are any of us even here?

Every change from the original formula simply makes the new series worse. But the good news is that the current “Runway,” which wrapped its 18th season in March, is better than ever (except for when Siriano first competed in Season 4). The looks are slick, the judges’ barbs are sharp and the series still feels fresh 16 years later.

There are many ways to skin a cat, but there’s only one tried and true formula for sewing a ready-to-wear outfit for the benefit of TV viewers. 



READ SOURCE

Leave a Reply

This website uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you accept our use of cookies.