One of the things I need to remedy is is not having spent enough time in Greece. I’ve been there only twice (both times to the islands), but I find myself daydreaming about being there more than any other place. I think that’s why I cook so much Greek food.
This potato stew, rich with tomatoes and lots of olive oil (like a potato version of gigantes plaki), made a very pleasing dinner with a side of lemon sauteed greens. It’s a stew that’s comforting, punchy and fresh. It’s great cold the next day, too, when I’d eat it with a green salad and this whipped feta dip. It’s the dip I make most often, and I know I’ll be doing so right though the summer. Serve with warm bread or anything dippable.
Patates yahni – potato stew with herbs and feta (pictured above)
This is my approximation of patates yahni; I’m sure there are lots of ways to make it, but I think the secret is adding a good amount of olive oil – it might be more than you are used to, but it is the key to the richness of this stew. This works with other roots, and butter beans too.
Prep 15 min
Cook 1 hr
Serves 4
Extra-virgin olive oil
1 onion, peeled and finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely sliced
800g medium waxy potatoes, cut into 3cm pieces
1 x 400g tin chopped tomatoes
1 tsp dried oregano
1 good pinch dried chilli flakes
1 good pinch ground allspice or 2 crushed allspice berries
Salt and black pepper
100g kalamata olives, stoned and torn in half
1 small bunch parsley, roughly chopped
1 tbsp black onion seeds
100g feta (I use a vegetarian one; optional)
Flatbreads, to serve
Heat a large pan on a medium heat, add a splash of olive oil and the onion, and cook for 10 minutes until soft and sweet. Add the garlic and cook for two minutes.
Add the potatoes, tinned tomatoes, four tablespoons of olive oil, the oregano, chilli flakes, allspice and a generous amount of salt and black pepper. Add 300ml boiling water, so that the potatoes are almost covered, and bring to a simmer. Turn down the heat to low and continue to simmer for 30 minutes, until the potatoes are cooked through.
Stir through the olives, spoon into bowls, and scatter with the parsley, onion seeds and feta, if using. Serve with warm flatbreads.
Whipped feta dip with lemon and cumin
This is my version of tirokafteri. If you are vegetarian, check if your feta uses rennet – authentic Greek ones usually do but plenty (most supermarket ones) are available without.
Prep 20 min
Serves 8
200g block feta (I use a vegetarian one)
4 tbsp thick Greek yoghurt
Lemon juice and zest
½ garlic clove, peeled and grated
Dried red chilli flakes
Salt and black pepper
1 tsp toasted cumin seeds
1 tsp Greek oregano (or other dried oregano)
Extra-virgin olive oil
Flatbreads, to serve
Put the feta in a food processor with two tablespoons of the yoghurt and a squeeze of lemon juice, and blitz to loosen.
Empty into a bowl, fold through the remaining yoghurt, add the garlic, a pinch of chilli, and season with salt and pepper. It should be a similar thickness and texture to hummus – add a little more yoghurt to thicken, or lemon juice to loosen, if need be.
Top with the cumin, oregano, a generous zesting of lemon, another pinch of chilli and a good glug of oil. Serve with flatbreads or toasted traditional bread.
