Fashion

Vitamin A Alternatives: What Else Works Like Retinol?


Few things inspire such devotion and cult-like fervour in the beauty industry than retinol. It’s gone from being dispensed only with a dermatologist’s note to becoming one of the most widely beloved (and clinically proven) skin saviours.

Before we go any further; a quick vocabulary lesson. Retinoid is the chemical class that retinol and other kinds of retinoic products are formed from, all of which are derived from Vitamin A. There are a few different brand names you might recognise (like tretinoin or Retin-A) that require a prescription but, on the whole, most over-the-counter products are either a retinol or another kind of retinoid, and they all act in a fairly similar way.

Consultant dermatologist Dr Anjali Mahto told Vogue, “Not only do retinoids reduce the signs of ageing and sun damage, but they are also really effective for those who suffer from breakouts as they act as an exfoliant. Retinoid creams are also beneficial in improving the appearance of stretch marks, but I would suggest combining this with other treatments such as microneedling and radiofrequency for maximum effect. The skin loses about one per cent of collagen per year from your mid-twenties, so starting a retinoid from your late twenties onwards is reasonable!”

However, it’s not without its pitfalls. In the stronger concentrations, it can cause peeling, irritation and sensitivity, with the boilerplate advice being to gradually taper in use once or twice a week. It’s also not safe for use during pregnancy or while breastfeeding, for fear of causing birth defects.

Thus, sometimes, an alternative is sometimes required. With such a strong efficacy profile, it’s easy to see why brands may want to champion their products as a retinol alternative, but do any of them really pack the same punch? Dr Mahto broke it down for us.

Bakuchiol

Bakuchiol is garnering a lot of buzz in beauty circles as a potential “natural” alternative to retinol. Dr Mahto said it was “promising”, and that it’s primarily comparable with retinol in terms of tackling the effects of sun damage on the skin.

“Bakuchiol is a compound found in the seeds of the Indian plant Psoralea corylifolia. Bakuchiol has been shown to activate a number of chemical pathways in skin cells that ultimately lead to improved collagen production, decreased collagen breakdown and reduction of melanin (pigment) synthesis. The overall net effect seems to be an improvement in fine lines, wrinkles and pigmentation which are commonly associated with the natural ageing process of the skin.”

In fact, a recent study in the British Journal of Dermatology found that bakuchiol decreased fine lines and pigmentation at the same rate as retinol.

The research looks promising but we’ll have to see if these results continue to be replicated in further studies.

Find it in REN Bio-Retinoid Anti Ageing Cream, £45 available at Lookfantastic.co.uk, and Ole Henriksen Goodnight Glow Retin-ALT, £39.10, available at Boots.com.

Rosehip Oil

Often touted as something of a wonder product, rosehip oil is popular with expectant mothers for its reported anti-stretch mark properties. It’s also fairly inexpensive and lightweight compared to other oils.

“Rosehip oil doesn’t contain retinol but actually contains small concentrations of all-trans retinoic acid,” explained Dr Mahto. “The main issue with this though is that you don’t really know what concentration you’re getting to determine whether or not it’s clinically effective to produce anti-ageing effects.”

Find it in Trilogy Rosehip Oil, £34.50, available at Lookfantastic.com

Granactive Retinoids

Just when you thought things couldn’t get any more confusing, there’s the fact that there are seemingly limitless variations of the spelling of the word “retinol” which brands use to describe their products.

“Granactive retinoids come up fairly frequently. A granactive retinoid is a slightly different blend of chemical esters that’s been formulated to deliver the benefits of retinol while being gentler on the skin,” noted Dr Mahto. “It’s a good option if you have very sensitive skin, or eczema or rosacea prone skin and can’t tolerate standard retinol.”

That being said, it’s worth noting that the vast majority of independent clinical trials are done on retinol, not any other blends, meaning that it’s hard to know if the effects will be as good – and, as it’s still a retinoid, it’s not suitable for use in pregnancy or while nursing.

Find it in The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 2% in Squalane, £7.80, available at Cultbeauty.com

The upshot

Do you need a retinol alternative? Perhaps not. “If you have normal to combination skin, I would still advise start on a very low concentration, like 0.3 per cent, (Vogue recommends SkinCeuticals 0.3% Retinol) and moisturising 20 minutes after – you may find you experience no irritation at all. Also, stop using other acids or harsh exfoliators at the beginning to get your skin used to it,” added Dr Mahto.

If you are pregnant or breastfeeding, or have especially sensitive skin, there’s a raft of options you can try. But otherwise, as Dr Mahto said, “Why wouldn’t you choose the most tested and effective option?”





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