Fashion

The fashion world has ditched its high-gloss glamour for soft minimalism (and our wardrobes will be following suit)


It’s the city that has bought us more catwalk magic than any other fashion capital.

Milan is where Roberto Cavalli conjured up an actual ring of fire (and the frow panicked about getting singed, the flames were so fierce); J-Lo reprised her jungle print gown (twenty years after it’s first outing) in an iconic strut for Versace and getting into a Moschino show was tougher than making it past the bouncer at Bargain in Berlin… Ah the good old days…

But since COVID1-19 struck Italy, the tragic count of Coronavirus deaths and the intimacy of lockdown have made designers feel humbled, thoughtful and focused. The results of the introspection mean the city’s Spring 2021 collections, which are being shown in Milan until Monday, focus less on the traditional glamour of short skirts and big hair tinged with celebrity sparkle and have a calmer message of purity and necessity. And the made from some really great clothes.

Catwalks were still staged IRL unlike London’s adoption of film and presentations, which shows how seriously Italy relies on the business of fashion for financial contributions, but guests in the front row and beyond were all masked up, obvs. It’s certainly a quieter MFW than ever before as many international visitors, who would be basking in the late Summer sunshine in between shows, remained at home. Prada eschewed guests entirely and presented their show via a live video with Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons (newly appointed co-creative director) answering questions from the public and explaining their inspirations.

In general, Milanese fashion’s flippant, frivolous and fast reputation – cemented by consistently low-cut, deep split or jewel-encrusted collections – seems to have faded in favour of essentials and basics. Those clever pieces that will build your wardrobe and which you turn to over and again when you have a “I have nothing to wear” moment. We are here for the new incarnation of Milan’s minimalism… these are the shows we’ve seen so far…

DSquared2

The Canadian twins, Dean and Dan Caten, love a theme and usually pepper their shows with theatrical references. But with a season spent in lockdown their take on Spring 2021 is pared-back and pure. There is still a flash of the label’s signature sexiness – cutaways and, scary on black leather – but it’s done in a straightforward way. No caricatures here. There was a perfectly prim LBD with a cut-out and belted back, oversized blazers and essential pencil skirts. All items that will seamlessly slip into our new normal lives.

Fendi

Late Creative Director Karl Lagerfeld’s role at Fendi has just been filled by London-born Kim Jones, but for Spring 2021 Silvia Fendi led the vision for the brand. Usually one of the most ultra-luxurious labels in Milan, this season was a humbler vision. The colours majored in pale Farrow & Ball-style whites, silhouettes were soft and draped, while linen – chosen for it’s sustainability – was the main fabric. Models Yasmin Le Bon, Penelope Tree and Ashley Graham made sure the catwalk was diverse in size and age of models too.

Maxmara

The home of the classic camel coat and where every sharp office worker would get their tailoring, Maxmara has changed tack for Spring 2021. Still attached to their signature sandy colour palette, the skirts were longer length, coat sleeves came with fluted cuffs and softer shoulders and crafty patchwork motifs hinted at a more relaxed mood. Instead of office chic, it’s more appropriate for a WFH reality.

Alberta Ferretti

Always home to the most feminine dresses and prettiest pieces – which sometimes felt out of place in micro-skirted Milan – this season Ferretti’s vision of the future of fashion is perfectly atuned to the world mood. That sandy colour palette appeared again alongside plenty of puff sleeves and softly bleached denim which made a collection of clothes perfect for next summer and the seasons beyond. We are all thinking (or should be thinking) about how to make our purchases last longer and any of this week’s Milan offering will stay the course in our wardrobes.



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