IF I close my eyes, I could be floating in a spa pool filled with pampering oils.
In fact, I am relaxing under the sun in Israel’s Dead Sea. Its wealth of nourishing minerals is giving my weary skin a much-needed free treat.
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The sea is EIGHT times saltier than your average ocean and there are walnut-sized salt crystals underfoot.
You can’t swim in this and the paper cut I got yesterday stings — but I can read a newspaper while floating on my back.
Suitably relaxed and with skin smoother than a baby’s bottom, it is time to start my trip through the Israeli desert with a stop at the ancient fortress of Masada.
The ruined mountain-top fort was built by King Herod around 31BC and is one of the country’s top tourist sites. It looms 400 metres high and cascades down three tiers of cliff face.
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In this heat, I don’t fancy climbing the steep path.
So I take the handy cable car to the top, where the sweeping views of the desert are nearly as spectacular as the ruins of Herod’s five palaces.
A partial restoration makes it easy to imagine Romans besieging the fortress in 73AD, when hundreds of Jewish rebels holed up inside killed each other rather than surrender.
The Negev desert forms 60 per cent of this tiny country. The jewel in its crown is the 1,500-acre Timna National Park, a couple of hours’ drive from Masada.
There are well-marked trails for walking and biking but I opt for a guided Jeep tour taking in impressive sandstone columns and pastel rock formations.
As darkness approaches I “salute to the sun” alongside hundreds of white-clad yoga aficionados here for the annual Yoga Arava Festival. It is an unforgettable experience.
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The next day I climb on a camel at a ranch ten minutes from the Red Sea resort of Eilat. It costs about £30 for 90 minutes, or around £44 for half a day, to ride a camel.
Included is a sample of Bedouin black tea with herbs and freshly cooked flatbread. Although it is delicious, I regret not trying it until after my bumpy camel ride.
My day in the desert has left me in need of refreshment, so there is no better time to head into Eilat for a beachside drink.
With a buzzing boardwalk lined with hotels and big chain stores, the Red Sea resort is a shopper’s paradise, with the area VAT-free.
There are lots of tempting beachside restaurants but I prefer the quieter Pedro’s, ten minutes’ walk from the main drag. Here, I tuck into excellent risotto and a yummy Israeli-style ceviche.
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Seafood is a great choice in Eilat. But no visitor to Israel should leave without sampling Middle Eastern staples such as falafel and hummus.
Meanwhile, the bigger hotels and restaurants usually serve up something of an international smorgasbord of cuisine, with my hotel buffet breakfast at the Dan Suites Eilat a great example of the variety on offer.
It is a tricky decision choosing between Israeli breads, cakes, meats, fish, salads and shakshouka, with even Chinese noodles and pasta. I solve the problem by going back for at least two courses.
With all this on offer, it is tempting to spend the rest of the day relaxing at the hotel, but Eilat has far too many things for the adventurous traveller to do.
The Red Sea is famous for its coral reef and there are plenty of ways to see it.
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Instead of a glass-bottomed boat or a deep-sea dive, I choose to watch the ocean at the Underwater Observatory Marine Park, which boasts more than 800 species of fish, coral, sharks, molluscs, stingrays and turtles.
The observatory is a highlight and somewhere to while away some happy hours watching multi-coloured fish at play among the coral.
Later, I get up close to some more famous Red Sea creatures at nearby Dolphin Reef, which offers visitors a chance to swim with semi-resident bottlenose dolphins.
These fascinating mammals are free to come and go as they please and the reef’s manager says they cannot resist coming back to hang out with the tourists.
I see one dolphin jump out of the sea just in time for a selfie with one lucky visitor before another happily swims alongside a trio of delighted snorkellers.
While dolphins are its main attraction, the reef also offers a beach, bar, and three pools complete with underwater music for a relaxing day out.
Then it is time to sit back, grab a smoothie and watch the sun go down. Shalom.
GO: Israel
STAYING THERE: One night’s B&B is from £82pp based on two sharing. See danhotels.com.
GETTING THERE: Flights from London to Aqaba in Jordan (24- minute drive from Eilat) are from £119.99pp one way.
See easyjet.com.
OUT & ABOUT: For Negev tours see negevtour.co.il.
MORE INFO: See new.goisrael.com and eilat.city/en.
