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Slopes and the city: discover the best of both worlds in Austria’s Innsbruck


The city of Innsbruck becomes particularly charming in the build-up to Christmas.






The city of Innsbruck becomes particularly charming in the build-up to Christmas.
Photograph: Austria Tourism

Lanterns glow, fairy lights twinkle and the sweet smell of home-baked cinnamon biscuits fill the air as you walk down picturesque alleyways on your way to an underground bar. Thinking back over your day, you remember the amazing views from that first run of the morning on the Stubai Glacier, the natural jumps you found in the forest in Schlick 2000, that thought-provoking visit to the museum of Tyrolean Folk Art back in Innsbruck and the amazing dinner out in the city centre. Not a typical ski day, but the kind made possible this winter thanks to a new holiday concept for the Innsbruck and Stubai ski area: a ski and city safari.

Ski resort of Neustift Stubai glacier Austria



See amazing views from the Stubai Glacier. Photograph: tarczas/Getty Images/iStockphoto

A new lift pass, the Ski Plus City Pass, covers 13 resorts in Tirol’s capital Innsbruck and the Stubai area, adding up to 191 miles of pistes, accessed by 111 lifts. The pass is available from 1 October to 10 May 2020 – and prices range from £95 for a two-day pass for adults (£47 for children aged eight-14), to £488 for a 21-day pass. Not only that, 22 of Innsbruck’s cultural attractions are included too, plus three indoor public pools, the Innsbruck Sightseer shuttle bus around the city, and public bus services out to the ski resorts, making it super easy to explore, just as Innsbruck locals do on winter weekends. In just a few days you’ll feel like one of them but, with longer than a weekend, you can really dig in to exploring the whole area and discover lesser-known spots you might otherwise have missed. In short, there’s more to it than your average ski package holiday.

How you do it is up to you. The easiest way is to base yourself in Innsbruck, which is particularly charming in the build-up to Christmas, then make trips each day to whichever resort you fancy, or whichever one has the best snow conditions that morning. Alternatively, create your own resort-hopping adventure, staying a couple of nights in each place in a mix of different hotels.

Austria, Axamer Lizum, Man skiing



Axamer Lizum is perfect for experienced skiers and snowboarders. Photograph: Michael Reusse/Getty Images/Westend61

From the city, the closest resort, and one that packs a serious punch, is Nordkette, reached by a cable car funicular that starts near the city centre and was designed by Zaha Hadid. This is where adrenaline-hungry city folk seek steep thrills, hitting the Hafelekar Run, with a 70% descent, one of the steepest in Europe. There is a raft of easier red runs too, with stupendous views of the city spread out below, and the legendary Cloud 9 iglu bar, which cannot be missed.

wolf



Back in Innsbruck, après ski might start with a visit to see the ibex and wolves at the Alpen zoo

Another option nearby is the gentler Patscherkofel, with a popular snowpark, three kids’ areas, a lengthy three-mile run and rustic hut cafes. Both are great options if you only have one weekend to explore.

With one of the longest seasons in Europe, typically September to June, the Stubai Gletscher resort is a favourite of ski racers and ski instructors doing their training before the season kicks in. It’s also a must-visit for tourists, with 62 miles of slopes and 26 modern lifts, amazing views from the top station at 3,210 metres, and a lively scene at the inns on the glacier.

Close by, Schlick 2000 is a traditional resort with lovely authentic huts, where you can try some kaiserschmarrn pancakes and slurp jagertee. Axamer Lizum– which hosted many of the 1964 and 1976 Winter Olympic events – is perfect for experienced skiers and snowboarders, where you can deep freeride when conditions are right, below rocky crags not dissimilar in appearance to the Dolomites. It’s one of Europe’s best-kept ski secrets.

You’ll also want to make time for Kühtai, the highest ski village in Austria. Hochoetz is great for families, as is Muttereralm, where children can run through the trees amid the breathtaking views.

A Christmassy atmosphere takes hold in late November, with the opening of six Christmas markets



A Christmassy atmosphere takes hold in late November, with the opening of six Christmas markets

Back in Innsbruck, après ski might start with a visit to see the ibex and wolves at the Alpen zoo, a trip to view the incredible opulence and painted ceilings of the Hofburg, built by emperor Maximilian I, or marvel at the majestic Court church, where 28 imposing, life-sized bronze-cast black statues flank his tomb. You can swim in the pools and relax at the sauna and wander through Wilten, the hottest neighbourhood in the area.

A Christmassy atmosphere takes hold in late November, with the opening of no less than six Christmas markets, linked by walkways illuminated by glittering crystal trees and sparkly lights. Each has its own character, from the traditional, peaceful St Nikolaus market in the oldest and least touristy area of the city, set against a backdrop of colourful buildings fringing the River Inn, to the Market Square, where kids adore the puppet theatres, carousel and storytelling. Be sure to taste some zelten fruit cake, traditionally eaten at Christmas. But at any time of year there’s a fantastic atmosphere, and what could make for better après ski than a whole, vibrant city full of bars? By the end of your trip, you’ll definitely be feeling like a local.

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