Travel

Ski holiday on the Italian-Swiss resort of Cervinia borders on perfection


EIGHTY-THREE steps. That is how far the ski lift is from our hotel.

You can’t get much better than that, especially carrying three sets of skis on your shoulders, for me and two kids, while wearing boots with less traction than Bambi on ice.

 Matterhorn dominating the landscape on the border between Switzerland and Italy

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Matterhorn dominating the landscape on the border between Switzerland and ItalyCredit: Getty Images – Getty

No messing about: Breakfast, kit on, gondola, boom.

We were first on the slopes over the Italian resort of Cervinia every morning.

This lovely spot was best summed up by Spencer, 11, who said: “Wow! It’s like stepping into a painting.”

The big pyramid of rock dominating this glacial range is the Matterhorn. You know the one — it is on the wrapper of every Toblerone.

 Rob and the kids wearing boots with less traction than Bambi on ice

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Rob and the kids wearing boots with less traction than Bambi on ice

It sits slap-bang on the Swiss-Italian border and you can ski to Zermatt if you are good enough . . .  and rich enough.

But I wouldn’t. I recommend staying on the Italian side, where the food is better and cheaper, the sun shines all day, there are miles and miles of snow and a myriad of runs for all abilities.

Spencer and his brother George, ten, started their week at the Ride’em Ski School as complete novices. By Friday, they went from top to bottom without tasting the snow once. Trust me, that’s a LONG way. Four lifts up.

That is 3,480ft at Plateau Rosa Testa Grigia, where the views are pretty much close to heaven, all the way down to Cervinia at 2050ft, via the snowpark to hit some jumps.

 Matterhorne is on the wrapper of every Toblerone

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Matterhorne is on the wrapper of every Toblerone

Thanks to their English-speaking instructor Alice Solimano, my boys now dream of competing at the Winter Olympics. As well as playing at Wembley.

We are in Italy, right, so lunch on the slopes was mostly pizza, pasta or cheese-and-ham toasties. You won’t hear my kids complaining about that.

Dad just might have enjoyed the occasional Peroni while slumped on a beanbag watching the world go by.

Now let me take you back to the start.

 Petit Palais hotel is warm and cosy, clean and modern

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Petit Palais hotel is warm and cosy, clean and modernCredit: melania.storelli@gmail.com

We stayed half-board at Petit Palais, a 3-star hotel booked with Crystal Ski Holidays.

It is warm and cosy, clean and modern, with just 50 rooms — including a penthouse suite called Mr Whymper. Ah yes, English mountaineer Edward Whymper made the first ascent of the Matterhorn, in 1865.

Not all education happens in the classroom, Mrs Daniels. It was worth the school fine.

Other observations about Petit Palais. The staff are super-friendly. The food is plentiful.

 The slopes over the Italian resort of Cervinia in Italy

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The slopes over the Italian resort of Cervinia in ItalyCredit: Getty Images – Getty

Four courses at night with free wine and soft drinks. The bar has Sky Sports and Premier League footie.

There is a business area. A ski hire shop in the basement.

The whole place was refurbished in 2018. And what is not to love about free hot chocolate and cake when you trudge back from the slopes late afternoon?

But don’t take my word for it.

GO: ITALY

GETTING/STAYING THERE: A week’s half-board at the 3-star Hotel Petit Palais in Cervinia is from £810pp based on two sharing, including flights from Gatwick to Turin leaving on March 8.

Find out more at crystalski.co.uk or call 020 8610 3123.

Half the guests are repeat visitors, so they must be doing something right.

I also recommend eating out one night at the White Angel, its sister hotel high up on the other side of the valley.

Go early and stretch your tired muscles in the heated indoor pool, which has incredible views. Even better, book a massage.

For families and first-timers, Petit Palais ticks all the boxes.

Just 83 steps and you are on the gondola to Plan Maison and the meeting point for ski school.

Bellissimo.

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