THERE’S no hula dance routine or a flower garland reception – just bracing wind as I step from my car at Cold Hawaii.
In fact, there’s nothing much to suggest how a sleepy fishing town in Jutland, Northern Denmark, got such a tropical nickname — unless you know your waves.
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Klitmøller’s reef break reminded intrepid Danish surfers of the waves in the balmy birthplace of their sport. The weather, less so. Hence, Cold Hawaii.
Taking full advantage of the waves is Westwind, a surf school and shop staffed by absurdly chiselled, sun-tanned, blonde instructors.
I’m paired up with Kristine. A confident teacher who speaks perfect English, she helps me catch a few waves, while I whine about feeling seasick in the choppy conditions.
My home for the weekend is Niels Juel, a thatched-roofed fish restaurant and B&B with panoramic sea views and a wood-burning hot tub, run by Jesper and Helle Birch.
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“The Cold Hawaii thing is a bit of fun but Klitmøller is Klitmøller not Hawaii. Even the waves aren’t that similar. But the area has its own charms,” says Jesper whose only nod to the Pacific is a car dashboard hula girl and lei necklace behind the bar.
After a mouthwatering seafood platter, Jesper, a friendly face with an easy laugh, cracks open the homemade herbal akvavit.
Birch For Homesickness or Hawthorn For Seasickness — I go for an extra measure of the latter.
Helle hands me some books on the area and one hardback catches my eye. Below the title ‘Thylejren’ in rainbow font stands a but-naked bloke chatting to a man dressed as a sailor.
Turns out surfing wasn’t the first countercultural wave to reach these shores. “You don’t know Thylejren?” Jesper asks. “It’s a nearby hippie commune.”
BOOK A BIKER
Thylejren was founded in 1970 by revellers at a music festival who had such a great time that they decided not to leave.
Half a century later and they’re still there.
It’s a half hour cab ride from Niels Juel to the camp. But in Cold Hawaii you don’t Uber, you Book a Biker. Next morning, bang on midday my ride arrives – a mean-looking motorcyclist on a Harley.
But this long-haired hard-man is no Hells Angel, Harald la Cour, is the vice- principal at Klitmøller High School.
In his spare time the 57-year-old runs Book a Biker, taking tourists on motorcycle rides and tours.
Rolling past the dunes and heaths of Thy National Park we pull up in a small clearing in the woods.
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Kristian, a social worker, shows me around the camp.
Visitors are welcome for a drink in their bar-cum-meeting hall but he recommends they don’t treat the locals like an Instagram attraction.
The 65-people commune has no cars, acres of outdoor space and homes built from recycled and eco-friendly materials.
Kristian’s handmade house is a hodgepodge of reclaimed wood and windows, where he lives with his pregnant wife and young son.
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He won’t let me leave without a small bag of organic “greens”, grown right there in his garden.
My final evening is spent in the market town of Thisted for what must be the world’s most hygge (cosy) music festival.
Organised by a small group of volunteers, Alive Festival is held every August in a small park, with three stages connected by paths lit with fairy lights.
There are comfy seating nooks in which to unwind and vegan burgers and ice cream on the menu.
The artists, especially up and coming London/Copenhagen singer Iris Gold, were unreal.
The locals were so warm I felt I’d made friends with the entire town. Yet despite my best efforts I couldn’t persuade a soul to stay put and set up a hippie camp.
So until next time, it’s Aloha Denmark.
GO: COLD HAWAII
GETTING THERE: Flights from Gatwick to Aalborg are from £115.90pp one-way. See norwegian.com.
STAYING THERE: One night’s B&B at Niels Juel is from £77.61pp based on two sharing. See nielsjuel.com or call +456 9135 188.
MORE INFO: For surf lessons see klitmoller.en.westwind.dk. For Alive Festival see alivefestival.dk/english. For more on Denmark see visitdenmark.com.
