I AM salivating over the spread of artisan cheeses laid out in front of me, desperate to dive in.
At last we get the go-ahead, kicking off with a creamy cheddar and pongy blue, before sampling a sweet Killeen Gouda made by a Dutch cheesemaker in Galway.
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At Sheridan’s Cheesemongers, a tiny, charming store in the centre of Dublin, a constant stream of customers queues up.
This is the first stop on my three-hour foodie tour of the Irish capital.
Like most lively cities, Dublin has had a hard time over the past 18 months. But now the craic is well and truly back.
Its cobbled streets are heaving with bars, restaurants and clubs, which make it the perfect place for a party weekend.
But there is so much more to this fair city.
In recent years, hundreds of independent food businesses have popped up in the small alleyways around Grafton Street — and you can sample the best of the bunch on a Fab Food Trail.
On the trail we tuck into goodies from eight restaurants, while also learning about the history of the streets on which we walk.
At the Loose Canon in Drury Street, we dive into a colourful array of cured meats, washed down with organic wine.
Then we potter off to the chic Seafood Cafe for fresh local oysters served with Guinness soda bread and whipped lemon butter.
Make sure to leave plenty of room for dessert.
Those with a sweet tooth should head to the Pepper Pot cafe, which sells some mouth-watering cakes and scones, includ-ing classic Victoria sponges, gooey brownies and gluten-free goodies.
The standout sweet spot for us, though, was Three Twenty Ice Cream Lab. Here, chemist-like staff put on a theatrical performance, using liquid nitrogen to create fresh batches of ice cream in front of excited customers.
I watch mesmerised as dry ice pours from the top of a vat like something from a potion-making scene in Harry Potter.
Belly truly full, I am relieved that my hotel is a short walk from here.
On the corner of Stephen Street Lower, the spanking-new Grafton Hotel is glamorous and modern.
Rouge velvet throws cover ornate beds and downstairs there’s an elegant art deco bar that serves artistic cocktails and Irish food.
It is bang in the centre of the action, with many of the most popular clubs and bars all within walking distance.
If you are heading out for a drink, you will want to sample some Guinness and whiskey head to the Roe And Co distillery, which runs blending and flavour tours.
A cocktail course helps visitors categorise their taste preferences, which they then use to mix up their own unique concoction.
If you are more of a Guinness fan, pop across the road to the Guinness Storehouse, which offers daily tours from £15.
Founded by Arthur Guinness — who signed a lease for 9,000 years at an annual rate of £45 in 1949 — the St James Street brewery no longer produces the black stuff but is instead a fascinating museum of all things Guinness.
You can even get your likeness printed on the head of a creamy pint.
What better way to round off a trip to Dublin?
GO: DUBLIN
GETTING THERE: The Grafton Hotel has room-only doubles from £105 per night.
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