Power politics: Demna Gvasalia unveils fashion’s new uniform on a set inspired by European Parliament

Demna Gvasalia stepped into a new position of power at Paris Fashion Week this morning, unveiling his latest collection for Balenciaga on a set which echoed the European Parliament complete with in-the-round seating and EU blue. 

Attendees who took their seats under unforgiving strip lighting played the role of dignitaries as the designer showcased a collection inspired by uniforms with overcoats echoing those worn by employees of French rail network SNCF, purposely inelegant suiting which took its lead from security workers to eighties power pairings figuring among the 91 looks on display. The show closed with five oversized ballroom dress in tinfoil inspired crinoline and supersoft velvet which bore no resemblance to anything an MEP might wear to conduct a day of business in Brussels. 

No explanation was provided for the choice of set with Gvasalia declining to engage in discussion, political or otherwise, after the show. Certainly, it made for a thought provoking backdrop against which to consider the notion of power as a construct created by the clothes we wear. 

Since emerging onto the scene with fashion collective cum cult label Vetements in 2014, Gvasalia’s narrative is as a sort of design Robin Hood – repackaging codes taken from everyday life as a luxury fashion with staggering price tags to match. Today’s showcase for Balenciaga was a masterclass in precisely that with uniforms – be them for train drivers, call centre staff or sex workers at the heart of the equation. With square toe shoes, lanyards and t-shirts designed to invoke popstar merchandise among the items on display, Gvaslaia’s interest is in everyday clothing and the transformative effect it has on the people who wear it was compounded. 

A line up models which included a host of truly powerful people including nurses, CFOs and teachers along with catwalk regulars including Bella Hadid were proof of this preoccupation.

In Gvasalia hands, Balenciaga has transformed from an exclusive fashion house to a global brand recognised by teenagers across the world with the brand’s best selling trainer style among the secrets of its success. Today plans for further domination were unveiled in the form of an office shoe come sneaker hybrid which is set to earn cult status. Sunglasses featuring an LED version of the house logo and a Balenciaga take on a Hello Kitty bag are also expected to ignite hysteria among fans of the brand that has previously given us the water bottle bag and its on, staggeringly expensive take, on the Ikea carrier bag. 

Critics of Gvasalia and the luxury streetwear movement his aesthetic ignited will find much that aggrieves them in this collection with logo t-shirts and their inevitably extortionate price tags among the most likely to cause irritation. But from a purist fashion perspective there’s plenty that delights with a reverent and respectful take on silhoutte among the show’s most acomplished inclusions.

The show marked Gvaslia’s first since stepping down from his role at Vetements, a role that propelled him to international sucess and his job at Balenciaga. His brother Guram will continue at the business. 

In a statement the Balenciaga designer said: “I started Vetements because I was bored of fashion and against all odds fashion did change once and forever since Vetements appeared and it also opened a new door for so many. So I feel that I have accomplished my mission of a conceptualist and design innovator at this exceptional brand and Vetements has matured into a company that can evolve its creative heritage into a new chapter on its own.”