Megève, France: Turns out The Alps are good for plenty more than just skiing

When you think about places worth visiting during the summer in France, you’d be forgiven if the small alpine town of Megève wasn’t on the top of your list, or indeed on your list at all.

Typically considered a pretty bougie ski destination, the peak season for visiting Megève is naturally the winter, with the picturesque and quaint town centre no-doubt particularly charming when blanketed in snow at Christmastime.

It’s all too easy to imagine the welcoming smell of hot chocolate and sweet treats being baked in the town’s several patisseries drifting through the square as horse-drawn carriages wait to carry you, cosy and covered in blankets, through the snow-covered cobbled streets.

With all that being said, I did not set out to experience Megève in the wintertime. Nor, thank God, did I set one clumsy foot on the ski slopes for which the area is best-known.

Instead I went to see what Megève has to offer in the height of summer, when the town is quieter, the mountains are greener, and, perhaps most importantly, the hotels are cheaper.

From five star hotels to the local luge, here’s a rundown of what Megève is like and what it has to offer in the off-season. 

Getting to Megève and the town centre 

As you make your way into France from Geneva, where one of the nearest airports is, it feels as if the the ground starts to rise up and surround you as, gorgeous and green, pine tree-covered hills and cliffs come into view before the high snow-covered alps.

What is it about being surrounded by mountains that’s so reassuring? Is it that these giant immovable things shut out the rest of the wide chaotic world? Is it soothing to think that they’ve been there long before us and will be there long after? Maybe it’s just that they’re just a bit pretty, but either way, it’s easy to see why people flock to the alps.

Megève is nestled neatly among these comforting peaks which, when green, strongly evoke Tolkien’s shire. 

Meanwhile the town centre is quiet, unspoilt, and has the air of a well kept – if expensive – secret. 

Classy boutique shops line the cobbled streets and everything is impeccably clean. The air is indescribably fresh – especially to this London-dweller and the centre of town seems specifically designed with walkers in mind rather than cars. 

The easiest way to describe Megève in the summer is that it’s the sleepy kind of place where you could happily stay for weeks with the only questions on your mind being ‘Shall we go for another walk’ and ‘Which of the four Michelin starred restaurants shall we eat at today?’ 

The food in Megève

That’s right – there are four Michelin starred restaurants which bring a total of seven stars to this one small french town, which makes indulging in the food that Megève has to offer a must. 

Even if you find the price of a high-end eatery in Megève a little intimidating – honestly who could blame you – there’s also a lovely little Cooperative shop at 107 rue General Muffat de Saint Amour which specialises in wine and delicious cheese, and there’s no shortage of bakeries with a wealth of sinful treats on offer. 

Fondue is a local specialty, which is made by heating cheese and wine together in a pan that has been effectively greased with garlic. We sampled the vegetable fondue at Le Refuge and it was good on an almost sexual level.

Another must-try Megève specialty are the glacons, which are small meringue-covered praline chocolates which, while a bit on the expensive side, are divine, especially when eaten with coffee. 

Isabelle, the local woman who makes them, is the fourth generation in her family to do so. She keeps the exact recipe a secret, and told us that, no matter how many offers she gets from big confectionery conglomerates, she turns them down because she wants to keep the glacons native to Megève.

The Alps from the air 

If you get a chance to take a flight around the Alps and see them from above, you’d better take it.

We went up in a four-seater plane, and even though it was almost impossible to hear what the captain of the flight was saying – something about the border of Italy and glaciers – it didn’t much matter because of all the adrenalin and wonder one feels just by looking around at the views.

Megève on foot

The immediate area around Megève is nothing short of beautiful – think all the prettiest best bits from Lord of the Rings – and much of that beauty is easily accessible on foot.

This is perfect for the traveller who’s fond of a hike and/or looking to save a little money, because not only does it mean you can have a great time in Megève without renting a car, but some of the most budget-friendly attractions are a short walk away from the town centre.

If you felt like kicking your trip into a higher gear, here’s a luge nearby which you can ride either solo or with a partner – think a rollercoaster without any loop-de-loops that you can drive yourself.