What’s going for it? Nobody would think to look for me in Thurso. Well they would now. (Or is that my double bluff?) Passing through the town, once, on the way to Lybster, as you do, the thought occurred to me that this would be an excellent place to disappear to, were I on the run from Villanelle, or when the going got rough, or the end of the world beckoned (or all three). For here is the end of our particular world, the most northerly town – and, with Dunnet Head, the most northerly point – in mainland Britain. The ferocious seas and wide skies conjure up that falling-off-the-edge-of-the-map feeling, which always seems to accompany places that really are at the edge of the map (though which is probably psychosomatic). Here, the wild mountains and crofting villages a little to the west of Britain’s northern coast give on to gentler rolling hills of bog, gorse, heather and Neolithic cairns, which end abruptly in sheer cliffs inhabited by gazillions of seabirds. Humans are outnumbered here and, faced with that and the falling-off-the-edge-of-the-map feeling, one can’t help but get a little existential, staring out at the waves and the Orkney Islands and contemplating Brexit, Trump, the climate crisis and the state of the universe. What’s it all about, eh? Surrounded by the surfers and soft white sand of Dunnet Bay, it’s a fine place in which to hunker down awaiting Armageddon.
The case against A long way away, obvs, unless you’re from Kirkwall. It appears the memo has gone round Thurso: any colour so long as it’s grey. Come on… get out the Dulux and paint the town red, or turquoise, or lemon yellow.
Well connected? For the end of the Earth, yes. Trains: to Inverness (3hrs 45mins), or the other way to Wick (29 mins). Buses: eight a day to Inverness, and hourly to Scrabster for the ferry to the Orkney Islands. Driving: 25 mins to Wick, two-and-a-half hours to Inverness.
Schools Primaries: evaluation criteria for Miller are “good” or “satisfactory”, and for Mount Pleasant mostly “good”, says Education Scotland; there’s no current report for Pennyland. Secondaries: the town’s Thurso High has no current inspection report.
Hang out at… The Captain’s Galley in Scrabster, for fresh seafood with the ocean before you.
Where to buy At its heart is a Victorian grid of low-density stone villas, terraces and townhouses sloping up the hill, all delightful and in excellent nick. Surrounding this on the flanks out of town are postwar to contemporary suburbans, many built for the Dounreay nuclear power station when that was operating. Detacheds and townhouses, £100,000-£250,000. Semis, £75,000-£125,000. Terraces and cottages, £75,000-£125,000. Flats, £55,000-£150,000. Rentals: scant properties for rent in the wider area.
Bargain of the week Spacious, two-bedroom terraced cottage in the conservation area. Could do with an update. Yours for £75,000, with youngrobertson.co.uk.
From the streets
Nog Clark ‘An excellent traditional music session in the Comm Bar on Wednesday night, and usually proper beer.’
• Live in Thurso and Dunnet Bay? Join the debate below
Do you live in Cardigan? Do you have a favourite haunt or a pet hate? If so, email lets.move@theguardian.com by Tuesday 9 July.
