Lifestyle

‘Joyce and Hemingway loved lingering here. I can see why’: readers’ favourite small cities in Europe


Winning tip: Trieste, Italy

I got off the train to Venice last summer in Trieste, planning to spend a few hours there, but was so knocked over by its beauty that I stayed for a few days. Tucked away in the north-east of Italy, it’s a crosscultural cocktail of Hapsburg, baroque and Slavic views and vibes – with a slice of Latin lemon thrown in. Piazza Unità d’Italia is an elegant square full of classy art nouveau cafes with the sea on one side – locally known as the Living Room of Italy. I strolled along Barcola for the evening passeggiata after checking out the nearby Miramare castle. There are beaches on the edge of the city that are easy to walk to – I had a swim one day. The food is hearty – Germanic meaty stews and spicy pizzas – while the coffee is strong. Joyce and Hemingway loved lingering over meals and drinks here – and I could see why.
Nigel

Gijón, Spain

San Lorenzo beach, Gijon. Photograph: Gonzalo Azumendi/Getty Images

Gijón is halfway along Spain’s northerly coast. Not as regal as its neighbour Santander but a place where generations of the same families have spent summers escaping the torrid heat of the interior. Few cities can boast two city centre beaches where visitors pitch up at their same chosen section each summer. The beaches are in strolling distance of the famed sidrerías (cider houses), which serve great seafood washed down with the tangy local cider. All this plus great independent shops, good-value hotels and massively improved transport links. Oh, and home to Spain’s greatest soccer team … Sporting Gijón!
Ciaran

Liberec, Czech Republic

Liberec’s gothic town hall. Photograph: Xantana/Getty Images

Not often mentioned, Liberec, in the north of the Czech Republic, is well worth a visit. The inner city has some beautiful buildings but is much less visited than Prague, so in my view offers a more “genuine” Czech experience, perhaps. Several museums (arts, crafts) offer cultural insights but there is also a more modern science centre/museum with lots of hands-on experiences (great for kids). To top it off there are (not massively high) mountains around the city, so nature lovers can see something new. The walk up to the TV tower – the most famous sight – is great!
Asa

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Teruel, Spain

Teruel Cathedral. Photograph: Ventura Carmona/Getty Images

“Teruel exists!” was a slogan coined in the hope of attracting visitors to this little town 3,000ft (914 metres) up on the edge of the Meseta Central. Twenty-five years later, however, Teruel is still a somewhat secret destination – which is a pity, as this is the heartland of Mudejar architecture and art, the unique and exquisite work from the medieval era created through interaction of Arabs, Christians and Jews. Teruel is packed full of Mudejar gems, the ceiling of the cathedral alone repaying long and patient study. Because there are so few tourists, people are friendly and welcoming. There aren’t many budget options, but the Gran Hotel Botánicos has good B&B deals, is a stone’s throw from the little railway station, and has a fifth-floor exit opening on to the high town, where you can spend hours being amazed by the beauty that exists here.
Barbara Forbes

Brno, Czech Republic

Brno boasts ‘views for miles’ says our tipster. Photograph: grafvision/Getty Images

Charming Brno might live in the shadow of Prague but has much to offer. The city is dominated by its castle, Špilberk, where you can enjoy museums, lovely parks, and views for miles. The old town reveals noble Austro-Hungarian architecture and classic beer halls like Vycep na Stojaka. The Moravian gallery stylishly features classic and modern art. Discover whimsical sculpture at every turn, such as the Statue of Courage, and Bauhaus architecture such as Villa Tugendhat on the Unesco world heritage list. Wind down at central Europe’s best cocktail bar, Super Panda Circus. Brno is an easy train ride to Vienna, Kraków and Prague.
Ryan

Aarhus, Denmark

Aarhus is a fully walkable city, our tipster found. Photograph: Westend61/Getty Images

Aarhus is the perfect microcosm of all the best things about Denmark: car-free streets, cosy cafes, mouthwatering bakeries, ancient Viking history, lively bars, chic boutiques and plenty of hygge. It’s far less touristy than Copenhagen while only three hours away by train. It’s cycle friendly, naturally, but small enough to be fully walkable, which is ideal for those less confident on two wheels. Wake-up Aarhus is a chain hotel perfectly placed in the city centre and ideal for visitors looking for a no-frills place to stay.
Morven

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Berat, Albania

Berat is great for getting lost in while wandering cobbled alleyways. Photograph: Arnulf Hettrich/Getty Images

Step back in time in Albania, in Berat’s Unesco-listed historic centre. Get lost wandering cobbled alleyways that haven’t changed for centuries, a blend of Byzantine and Ottoman architecture within the original fortress walls. Cross the Osum river, which carves a gorge through the valley below the fortress, to explore the 17th-century mosques in the atmospheric Mangalem district. Stay in Tradita e Beratit, a boutique guesthouse inside a sensitively restored Ottoman home – sample their fantastic local cuisine and wine. It’s a wallet-friendly £55 to stay the night and less than £10 a head for an Albanian feast.
Jake

Plovdiv, Bulgaria

Our tipster was delighted with Plovdiv’s laid-back vibe and cheap beer. Photograph: Konrad Zelazowski/Alamy

Plovdiv is one of Europe’s hidden gems. After feeling a bit underwhelmed by Sofia, my dad and I took a day trip to Plovdiv and immediately regretted not staying longer. The city is packed with ancient ruins and stunning architecture that my dad loved, while the cool arts scene was more my thing. Everything is easy to explore on foot, and the beers are cheap, which kept my dad even happier. If you’re looking for a place with a mix of history, culture, and a laid-back vibe, Plovdiv is a must-see.
Frances

Nafplio, Greece

Nafplio is two hours’ drive west of Athens. Photograph: Westend61/Getty Images

A two-hour drive west from Athens, over the photogenic Corinth Canal, takes you to Nafplio, Greece’s old capital. It is a history lover’s paradise with Palamidi fortress (999 steps up so they say, but you can drive or taxi), Bourtzi castle and museums aplenty to see, but we also enjoyed the promenade walk to the old town beach of Arvanitia and exploring the boutiques, bars and tavernas in the little cobbled streets. Within half an hour you’ll find the stunning ancient theatre of Epidaurus and you can return to a jug of local Greek wine, meze and fresh fish. We stayed in an Airbnb but there are plenty of small hotels, many with sea and mountain views.
Emma

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Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina

The Stari Most (Old Bridge) on the Neretva in Mostar. Photograph: ccr_358/Getty Images

Mostar is an extraordinary city steeped in deep history and culture. We enjoyed visiting the Unesco world heritage site Stari Most, a bridge that dominates the skyline, arching stoically over the aquamarine Neretva river; the bridge’s reconstruction after the Bosnian war is a testament to the resilience of the city’s people. Be sure to stop and observe fearless locals dive from the bridge into the water below. We explored Mostar’s Old Town, which offers winding cobblestone streets lined with traditional Ottoman-style houses, bazaars and cafes, where you can find everything from affordable handmade crafts to delicious local delicacies.
Tara Evans

Roskilde, Denmark

Roskilde’s Viking ship museum. Photograph: Pavel Dudek/Alamy

Just outside Copenhagen, Roskilde offers a lovely, walkable alternative. The former capital, it has romantic cobbled streets with picturesque townhouses straight out of a fairytale, as well as a rock music museum. Its cathedral is home to royal tombs and echoes with Denmark’s imperial past, while the world-class Viking ship museum offers sailing trips on the fjord and open workshops where modern-day artisans are exploring old techniques. Zleep Hotel Prindsen is central, with prices from £115.
Karie

Padua, Italy

Prato della Valle, Padua. Photograph: rudi1976/Alamy

Forget the Insta-traps of Venice and Verona, Padua offers beauty, character, history and cuisine without the crowds and prices. Start at the Scrovegni chapel, housing Giotto’s famous frescoes. From here, stop by Padua university in Palazzo Bo (the second oldest in Italy), before heading to Saint Antony’s basilica and the world’s oldest botanic gardens. Check out Italy’s biggest square, the magnificent, statued Prato della Valle, before meandering through the winding streets of the old ghetto for spritz and arancini and the numerous bars, finishing in Piazza delle Erbe for a box of delicious, freshly fried fish at Pescheria da Matteo. Eat where the locals go at Osteria Fradei Kempas before finishing the night at cellar bar Cantina del Gufo.
Matt Lunt



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