ON Jersey, they know how to get creative with food.
During occupation in World War Two, they would substitute sea water for salt, charred beetroot for coffee, and forage for shellfish and seaweed to turn into stew.
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That creativity is celebrated every year at the Eat Jersey Food Festival. I stayed at the 4H Atlantic Hotel where the festival is based and it was a real treat for my taste buds — if not my waistline.
A huge lobby, with fishpond and a trickling fountain, leads guests to an inviting lounge area with colonial style decor.
Beautiful gardens, a sun terrace and swimming pool come complete with views over St Ouen’s Bay and its sandy beach.
A taste sensation
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But it is the island’s fine dining that I was there for and the Festival’s gala dinner was a foodie’s dream come true.
The hotel’s award-winning chef, Will Holland, was joined by visiting chefs from top UK restaurants, each preparing a different dish.
The five-course feast started with pig cheek and Jersey scallops (Paul Leonard, The Devonshire Arms, Skipton, N Yorks) followed by salt-baked celeriac, hazelnut, truffle and pecorino (Richard Davies, Calcot Manor, Tetbury, Gloucs), then Jersey turbot, turnip pappardelle, deep-fried Jersey oyster and champagne sauce (Lee Smith, Samphire, Jersey) and Tater “ash” of retired dairy cow, mushroom catsup, malted sourdough and beef butter (Adam Reid, The French, Manchester).
Dessert was an incredible fusion of sweet and savoury, with artichoke “caramac”, peanut butter, orange and celery sorbet prepared by Chris Underwood (The Frog, Hoxton, E London) — and it was even a hit with a pudding-dodger like me.
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If you’re not visiting during the festival, the Michelin-starred Samphire restaurant is open year-round in St Helier.
An unassuming facade in a quiet back street hides an impressive club-like dining area, two bars, an al fresco terrace and rooftop garden.
The fennel and lemon risotto was a taste sensation and the beef fillet was beautifully cooked and served with local veg including (naturally) Jersey new potatoes.
St Helier is home to a third of the island’s 100,000 population and a wander round the centre, with its shops, bars and indoor markets, is recommended.
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Amateur sleuths can seek out cocktail bar Project 52, hidden behind an anonymous door down a back alley.
Bar manager Cris took me through a gin-tasting experience where we mixed four spirits — including Ryan Reynolds’s Aviation — with various fruits and herbs, tonics or ginger ales and each one was delicious.
If afternoon tea is more your thing then try Longueville Manor hotel, a picturesque 14th century hotel.
Enjoy an elegant three-tiered cake stand filled with finger sandwiches, scones with Jersey cream and “black butter” (a local jam) and beautifully-crafted cakes — served in a wood-panelled room with a roaring fire.
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The 5H hotel also has a garden spa, where wonderful massages are expertly administered using oils scented with herbs from the kitchen garden. An unforgettable experience.
After all that food and relaxation, a walk was definitely in order.
One of the best spots is St Aubin’s Bay, with its miles of promenade and cycle path.
At the seaside outlet Nude Food, the Buddha bowl — a hot salad of superfoods topped with a poached egg — is from £9.
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For my final night, I drove to the East coast and walked the impressive Mont Orgueil Castle, overlooking the harbour of Gorey.
Nestled in the quay is the small, hugely popular restaurant Sumas, run by Paul Duffy and recommended by virtually every local I met.
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Boasting an all-weather terrace with views across the Atlantic, the relaxed eaterie showcases the island’s famous shellfish, including hand-dived scallops and Royal Bay oysters, meat dishes and a vegetarian menu.
Among the mouth-watering dishes I experienced were the crispy duck egg, duck ham and hay-baked celeriac. Heading home, I felt relaxed, rested . . . and a little more round.
Diet starts on Monday.
GO: JERSEY
GETTING THERE: Flights from the mainland to Jersey cost from £19.99pp one way. See easyjet.com.
STAYING THERE: Two nights’ B&B at The Atlantic Hotel & Ocean Restaurant is from £380pp based on two sharing, including a three-course market menu and car hire. See theatlantichotel.com.
MORE INFO: See jersey.com.
