Ice to meet you, Luleå: How to spend 48 hours in Swedish Lapland

Swedish Lapland isn’t just for Christmas.

That’s what I discover in the middle of February, where in Luleå, its largest city, there are no signs of this winter wonderland melting away.

As I step out onto a frozen patch of the Baltic sea, in the small Island of Gråsjälören, I’m greeted with a frosty hello, it’s -17C and the ice is crunching and crackling underneath my boots.

Right now this part of the archipelago bares the scene of a remote arctic landscape, it’s invariably freezing and in the distance I see wild reindeer roaming free.

It’s a popular winter destination spot with Luleå’s citizens. Nearby in the snow-covered woodlands there are scores of locals gliding on kicksleds – a one-person stand-up sled that looks like a winter-sports version of a walking frame.

Settlements in and around the bay are small, charming, and very warm on the inside.

The café on the island is run by the local Luleå Lions Lodge and all profits made here are all donated to charity.

It’s the perfect place to start a Scandinavian adventure.

It’s also the best spot to partake in winter activities, such as snowshoeing and ice fishing.

I start my icy adventure by going on a snowmobiling safari over the city’s frozen Baltic sea.

The tour begins with an information meeting and safety run-through with Andreas, our instructor from Brandkonferens. Equipment is shared out and our group slip into snowmobile zip suits, boots, helmets and other bits of clothing needed to enjoy the winter weather. The cold inevitably bites through each layer of protection but the excitement seems to numb away the freeze.

After receiving instructions in snowmobile driving, we set off on the ice in convoy, whizzing through the snow with nothing but miles of arctic freedom in every direction.

The looming cool blue light of the sky and a horizon warm with yellows, oranges and pinks is a sight to behold. With the icy wind biting my face it seems pure insanity to be doing this, but I love experiencing the thrills of this frosty journey.

Our destination is Brändöskär Island. On the way we pass small cottages, lighthouses and fishermen’s cabins, and stop for refreshments in a location that can’t be found by GPS but only by a local’s knowledge.

Once there, we take a walk on the ice, admiring nature’s frozen art before heading back to our base. Being the only woman in our group I feel a sense of achievement in trying to keep up with the fast pace of the boys. I arrive fashionably late but back in one piece.

Snowmobiling isn’t the only thing for me to cross off from my Luleå bucket list, as I’m scheduled in for a session of Ice driving with professional instructor Bengt Norberg on the city’s famous Ice Road.

Driving on ice is an essential skill for the Swedes and Norberg is former rally driver, who now teaches people how to control a car in a skid on icy or snowy terrain.

He is also a part of the team responsible for the maintenance of the ice track, and does regular checks to ensure it’s safe to be driven on, clear of snow and good for recreational activities including skating. The river usually freezes around the end of November and is typically in use through to April.

The hype about this track is well deserved, as this crystal clear 10km oval ice road is carved into the surface of the frozen Luleå River.

Ice driving on it is set to be even more exciting for both Norberg and I as we’ll be test driving the latest Volvo estate car, the V60 Cross country.

The car’s all-wheel-drive, raised suspension and rugged body cladding make it the perfect companion for a Scandinavian road trip.

As we set off, I know I’m in safe car. With three laps ahead of us, we interweave in and out of a 2km handling track with flags at every apex.

The third and final lap feels like a real Top Gear moment, we step on the accelerator and feel the fast freedom of driving the Volvo V60 across the frozen Baltic sea.

Safety is the name of the game as we do a fake emergency stop. Immediately the automatic emergency braking comes into full effect and the seat belt pre-tensioner kicks in, with the straps becoming five times tighter across my chest.

If a seatbelt pre-tensioner is activated or an airbag is deployed in a crash, an operator will contact the car and can send the emergency services to your precise location using the car’s inbuilt GPS system.

The skills I’ve learnt will be now be put into use as I go on an hour and a half solo road trip to the Treehotel in Harards, a village approximately 60 kilometres south of the Arctic Circle.

The V60 Cross country proves to be an intelligent road companion, as this model uploads road condition information to a cloud while you’re driving, allowing other Volvos to download warnings about the road ahead.

A wide range of cloud-based apps are also available, including Spotify, which means during the long drive on the highway I have my favourite hits on full blast plus a few new Swedish ones to keep me entertained.

As I pull into the century-old building of the Treehotel’s guesthouse, we are greeted by the hotel’s owners and married couple Kent and Britta Lindvall, who are both Swedish Lapland locals.

Once settled in they tell me their story of transforming this ordinary guesthouse into an international treetop metropolis, which has been highly sought after by travellers and celebrities from near and far, including Kate Moss and Justin Bieber.

A change of scenery happens as we leave the guesthouse and travel the road onto the Harads forest, where seven of the quirkiest accommodations inconceivable to man awaits its residents. A wonderland of architecture surrounds us with each room having its own charm and character, which is encapsulated in their names, such as The Mirrorcube, UFO, Blue Cone and Bird’s Nest.

I have the luck of the draw as I will be residing in The Cabin, a TreeHotel location based on the idea of creating a platform high up on a steep hillside.

On our menu tonight is a feast of authentic Swedish flavour – deep fried perch, pan seared whitefish, followed by a delicious and tender cut of elk striploin and its sweet endings with a blueberry sorbet.

As night dawns we go on a Northern Lights safari in snowmobiles and are transported to the middle of the forest, where we light a fire and sip on Swedish Wolfstep (warm cranberry juice and Kebnek vodka).

In the background local teenagers toast their Friday night by impressing us with acrobatic stunts on their snowmobiles. The aurora borealis doesn’t come out to play, but still this night-time adventure remains a tale of wanderlust everyone should experience.

After a night among the trees I wake up to the tranquil scenery of snow-covered pine trees and the sweeping views of the Lule River valley. A short stroll through the birch forest onto the path between breakfast at the Treehotel restaurant and my room, soon reveals the grandeur of the property and how easy it is to get lost.

As I pull out onto the highway for one last time, I can’t help but wish to return to Swedish Lapland during the summer months.

I imagine the days will be warmer, the trees will get their greenery back, the ice will melt and the Baltic Sea will start to flow again, meaning this frozen playtime will be over and nature will continue to do what it does best.