Fashion

How the EU’s pending EBA decision affects garment workers in Cambodia


Since the European Commission announced on 11th February of this year
that Cambodia could possibly lose its trade status “Everything but Arms”
(EBA), some 800,000 seamstresses in Cambodia have been living in fear of
losing their livelihood. In a short documentary film, non-profit think-tank
Mekong Future Initiative (MFI) provides an insight into the daily life and
work of a seamstress, as well as the fears about a future that is being
decided upon by the European Parliament.

Like many other developing countries, Cambodia is currently allowed to
import duty-free goods into the EU via the EBA scheme to promote economic
development. This status can be suspended if countries violate EU standards
in fundamental areas, such as in Cambodia’s case the political course taken
by Prime Minister Hun Sen, which is becoming increasingly tough and is
setting the country on the road to becoming a one-party state, but also the
widespread corruption.

The impact of losing EBA status would mainly affect ordinary people,
those working in the textile and garment sector. The absence of customs
duties and import quotas has made importing textiles, garments, shoes and
bicycles from the Southeast Asian country particularly attractive for
European countries – the EU’s share of Cambodia’s annual export volume of
8.5 billion US dollars (around 6.57 billion British pounds) of textiles and
shoes currently accounts for 46 percent and is thus the most important
market for Cambodia.

Since a seamstress not only provides for up to four family members with
her salary, but also contributes to the livelihood of bus drivers, grocers,
teachers and other service providers in her neighbourhood, far more than
the 800,000 garment and textile workers would be affected, namely millions
of people as the film illustrates.

“In the last 25 years since the end of the civil war, Cambodia has
developed rapidly and positively, also with the support of the EU. It is
now the concern of the business community and the population that this
progress will be cancelled through EBA withdrawal,” says the Mekong Future
Initiative in a press release published on Thursday. The aim of the NGO is
to promote trade, investment and entrepreneurship in order to improve
living standards and opportunities for the citizens of the Mekong region.

The video shows a glimpse of seamstress Sek Hong’s life, who has been
working since 1997. She heard six months ago about the EU’s possible
withdrawal of the EBA status and has since been worried that this could
mean her garment factory closing down. For her personally, who pays debts
of 150-160 US dollars (115-125 British pounds) per month at a salary of
230-240 US dollars (178-185 British pounds), as well as housekeeping costs
and school fees and other expenses for her son, this would mean shortages
and scarcity even for basics and further debt, as she would have to borrow
money from friends. Finding a new job would be difficult.

Given the EU’s legitimate concerns about continuing violations of human
and labour rights in Cambodia and a possible withdrawal of EBA trade
status, which would affect the most vulnerable in the supply chain – the
garment workers – it is hard to know what to do. In any case, there should
be a dialogue with stakeholders such as international and local trade
unions, the Garment Manufacturers Association of Cambodia (GMAC),
programmes such as Better Factories Cambodia and others before taking any
drastic measures.

Photo: film still



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