Lifestyle

Hotel of the week: Scribner’s Lodge, Catskills


A city break in New York is always thrilling, but the pace can be exhausting too. Once you’ve eaten, shopped, drunk and danced your way around the Big Apple , head upstate for a weekend of fresh mountain air, food worth writing home about and one very stylish lodge.

Here’s everything you need to know about staying at Scribner’s.

Where is it?

You’ll find Scribner’s in the Catskills, the weekend destination of choice for in-the-know Brooklynites. Only a couple of hours out of New York, it’s ideal for tagging onto a trip to the city. The hotel sits near the base of Hunter Mountain with pretty Phoenicia and handsome Hudson nearby.

Make smores on the outdoor firepits (Scribner’s Lodge)

Style

The mountain lodge recently underwent a refurbishment and became part of the Design Hotels collection, so comes as no surprise that it’s now a very good-looking place. If the Ace Hotel opened a Scandi-style lodge upstate, this is what it would look like. All utilitarian-luxe, the main lounge is the star of the show with its central wood burning effect stove. Think yards and yards of sleek pale oak flooring and panelled wood walls, leather armchairs with cosy faux-fur throws, macrame wall hangings and shelves vintage books inspired by the local area. There’s also glass in spades to maximise its vantage point onto Hunter Mountain.

Which room

The Scribner’s Suite is large and luxurious (Scribner’s Lodge)

Scribner’s has been designed to take care of everyone from couples, to groups of friends and families. Each stays true to the hotel’s utilitarian-chic aesthetic and are decked out minimally with lots of white, which helped me secure two very calm, deep sleeps after several jet-lagged nights in the Big Apple. A group of three girlfriends, we loved the Scribner’s Suite, which is a double height mini apartment with two bedrooms (one on a mezzanine) and a living space complete with log-fire and doors which peel back to reveal a generous terrace overlooking Hunter Mountain. There are nice little touches such as a daily supply of s’mores which you’re encouraged to toast at the communal fire pit outside the main lounge in the evening. Bathrooms are perfunctory rather than luxurious (don’t expect freestanding tubs ), but we loved the hotel’s own-brand rosemary-scented body and hair products.

Food & drink

The hotel has a bar and restaurant, Prospect, that’s very much part of the local food scene. On the plus side, it means there’s always a buzz (especially on weekends); on the downside, it means you need to book a table otherwise you might not get fed. Kick off your night with martinis or negronis by the fire in the main lounge area, before snagging a booth in the restaurant and feasting on comforting classics including kale caesar salad, cheeseboard and burgers. Breakfast (which isn’t included in your room rate) runs from the healthy end of the spectrum – think granolas and fruit with yoghurt – to the naughty end, with stacked pancakes, waffles and egg dishes.

Indulge in one of the salads (Scribner’s Lodge)

Facilities

As well as the restaurant and a whisky bar, there’s a lovely pool for summer visits and a spa will be opening soon. In the meantime, take advantage of the hotel’s complimentary daily yoga and pilates sessions for guests each morning – a great way to limber up for a day’s skiing, hiking or just to reset a frazzled head. It also has two 4×4 BMWs, which guests can take out for free – just make sure you ask first thing in the morning if you haven’t got your own vehicle. It’s a neat way to explore the beautiful countryside or get yourself to some of the neighbouring towns with food hot spots.

Extra-curricular

During the winter months, Scribner’s is all about the skiing on nearby Hunter Mountain. But if you’re not into mountain sports, there’s still plenty to do – and eat. We took one of the aforementioned BMWs for a spin and were rewarded with a scenic, snowy drive through the mountains, stopping by Phoenicia Diner for enormous brunch plates of breakfast burritos and milkshakes. Woodstock, Tannersville and Hudson are all worth the trip – each packed with thrift stores to hunt through. For an evening out, book a table in Deer Mountain Inn for drinks and dinner – it’s a gloriously traditional and super cosy lodge and only 10 minutes by taxi from Scribner’s.

The exterior has utilitarian influences (Scribner’s Lodge)

Best for

Groups of friends and families. Couples looking for romance and quiet might not be into the number of kids running around the restaurant and living rooms.

When to go

We visited in the depths of January, which meant everything was covered in feet of snow and felt deliciously cosy. It would be equally gorgeous in spring or autumn for gentler temperatures and hiking – and for a sun-drenched poolside staycation in summer. In short, every season has its perks.

The library room (Scribner’s Lodge)

How to get there

So beloved are the Catskills by New Yorkers, that some clever fellows have invented a way to get there which doesn’t involved renting your own car: enter The Line. Essentially a premium bus shuttle, it picks you up in Manhattan on a Friday evening and drops its lucky riders off at specific hotels in the area, including Scribner’s. And, of course, returns you to the city on a Sunday evening. Train lovers should look into riding the Amtrak service from Penn Station to Hudson – although not the cheapest option, the line hugs the river all the way and the views are beautiful.

Details

Rooms from $210 (£164) midweek, Scribner’s Suite from $550 (£431); scribnerslodge.com



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