Six years ago, the worst industrial accident in the history of
Bangladesh occurred. More than 4,000 people were buried under debris and at
least 1,138 killed when the Rana Plaza building collapsed, housing several
garment factories where western apparel companies manufactured their
clothes. “We need a global ethic of responsibility in the supply chain,”
said Gerd Müller (CSU), Germany’s Federal Minister of Economic Cooperation
and Development. On Monday, he introduced the Green Button, the world’s
first government sustainability label designed to help improve textile
manufacturing. Below are the most important points in summary.
What does the label look like and where can you find it?
It is in black typeface and instead of the “o,” there is a green button
– that’s what the government label looks like. It is affixed to the garment
and either sewn in or attached. Some companies will initially only refer
online to their products with the Green Button. The label is awarded by the
Federal Ministry for Economic Cooperation and Development (BMZ) to
manufacturers who have passed the required examination procedure. The label
combines social and ecological standards whose criteria and conditions are
determined by the government.
Which social criteria does a product have to meet?
Products with the Green Button must fulfil 26 social and environmental
minimum standards. The social criteria include, for example, employee
rights, such as the applicable statutory minimum wage, the paid minimum
wage and overtime and the right to non-discrimination, as well as
prohibition of child and forced labour. Compliance with safety and health
regulations in the workplace – protective clothing, for example, clean
drinking water and adequate fire protection – is also important.
Which ecological criteria have to be fulfilled?
While the social standards focus on the process of clothing production,
the environmental criteria revolve around requirements in textile finishing
like dyeing procedures or the chemical retrofitting of clothing. The
minimum requirements, for example in regards to wastewater and chemicals
harmful to human health and the environment, are important in this context.
In addition, there are requirements for the biodegradability of substances
and the level of air pollution.
Which standards apply to companies?
In addition to social and environmental criteria that a product has to
meet, due diligence obligations of the entire company apply in terms of
human rights and the environment. The manufacturer must be prepared to
identify risks in the supply chain and take responsibility for them. The
company has to also follow transparent reporting and have an “effective
complaints mechanism” in place. The approach of involving a company as a
whole when awarding a label is an interesting innovation that prevents
companies from simply ‘greenwashing’ themselves with individual
certificates.
Which manufacturers and products will carry the label?
Around 70 companies have expressed interest in the Green Button, from
one-women-startups to international fashion conglomerates and brands.
Foreign companies are also said to have expressed interest. Many of them
are currently going through the testing process; the first 27 will start on
Monday with the first Green Button products. Among others, Vaude is
involved, as well as Tchibo, Aldi and Hessnatur, and brands such as Hugo
Boss will be added. The product range includes clothing, blankets, bags,
mattresses, umbrellas and carpets and even retainers for glasses and
mosquito nets.
How does the testing procedure to obtain the Green Button work?
The Green Button is a meta label and a beacon in a sea of dozens of
existing labels. Those who want it have to already have received one or
more of the seven reference labels recognized by the German Federal
Ministry for Economic Cooperation and Development (BMZ) and that too in
such a way that all social and ecological criteria are covered. Approved
seals include: Blue Angel, Fairtrade, Fair Wear Foundation, Oeko-Tex Made
in Green, Blue-Sign, CradletoCradle Silver, Global Organic Textile
Standard, Naturtextil IVN certified BEST. Inspection agencies for the
company criteria are, for example, TÜV and Dekra (Germany’s largest
inspection company), whose independence the Federal German Accreditation
Body wants to guarantee.
Has there been any criticism so far?
So far, the Green Button has looked only at the processes of dyeing and
bleaching as well as cutting and sewing textiles – and not at the cotton
field. Spinning and weaving are also not monitored; all this is to come
later. The International Association of the Natural Textile Industry warns
that this and a “clever combination” of the reference labels could lead to
consumers buying genetically modified fibres in the end.
There is also criticism of the fact that there are concessions for small
companies and in the case of products manufactured in the EU-the proof of
compliance with social standards is less strict. Some companies also
criticise the cost and the amount of bureaucracy involved.
How much does it cost to apply for the Green Button?
In the introductory phase until 30th June 2021, the BMZ will pay for the
initial inspection of a company; afterwards, the companies will have to pay
themselves.
Will the Green Button improve the textile industry?
The hope is that the Green Button, as a recognisable sign, will help
consumers pay attention to sustainability when buying clothes and purchase
more products that are produced ecologically and fair. The more companies
that join the Green Button, the more widespread the minimum standards set
by the label will be. It remains to be seen how many companies will apply
for the label and how much of their product range will carry the Green
Button. To start with, the new label has encouraged a wide range of textile
companies to take part, but both the German Textil+Mode Federation and the
German Retailers’ Association (HDE) have so far taken a stance against the
project.
Development organisations criticise that the Green Button does not set
ambitious standards for the textile industry in order to improve the
prevailing production conditions. On the contrary, some of the criteria
even fall short of the existing best practices. NGOs argue that the
voluntary nature of the label won’t bring about comprehensive changes that
only a law could.
Where can one find more information?
The website www.gruener-knopf.de explains the criteria for awarding the
Green Button in detail, also for what kind of products it applies and which
companies are already participating. (FashionUnited/AFP)
This article was originally published on FashionUnited DE. Edited
and translated by Simone Preuss.
Image: BMZ | Agentur Tinkerbelle
