Somewhere between the rise of the skintellectuals brandishing their single-ingredient serums and our general skincare literacy increasing tenfold, beauty has become positively futuristic. Gone are the days where you’d go for a facial, have a simple clay mask applied, listen to some whale music and be on your way – nowadays, we want results and we want them fast.
Enter lasers, and a whole world of currents and frequencies to be tinkered with. While some of these technologies have been used in beauty and the medical community for some years, thanks to advancements and tweaks in their scope, they’re firmly back on the agenda for 2019.
Vogue asked facial plastic surgeon and cosmetic doctor Dr Maryam Zamani and laser facial specialist Debbie Thomas to explain the finer points…
What is laser?
A laser is essentially light, but not light as you know it. Laser is a form of electromagnetic radiation, like all light, from UV light to X-Ray. Unlike other forms of light, like visible light, it’s not naturally found. Instead, laser is created. Lasers are engineered to have very regular wavelengths, and the waves travel with their peaks all lined up, which is called “in phase”. (Did you know laser is actually an acronym? It stands for Light Amplification by the Stimulated Emission of Radiation). “Lasers produce a very narrow, concentrated beam of light,” offered Thomas. “If you shine a torch across the road, the light will become dispersed. A laser will remain strong and unified, no matter how far it has to travel.”
A-Level Physics reminder aside, the unique properties of lasers make them very useful in skincare. “With lasers, because they’re man-made, you can select the parts of light that you want for the job at hand,” explained Thomas. While LED is a light treatment, it’s not a laser, and so any light that emits from it isn’t as concentrated. IPL, which is often used for hair removal, stands for intense pulsed light, and while it often gets lumped in with laser, it isn’t a laser. “The light from IPL is scattered light,” explained Thomas. “But it still gives out enough energy to get the job done.”
Who is laser good for?
Lasers have a variety of functions for everything from mending broken veins to managing the symptoms of rosacea and acne. “Your non-ablative lasers are lasers that don’t peel the skin,” noted Thomas. “Those lasers are a little more commonly used and have minimal downtime, just a little pinkness after. These help produce collagen and plump the skin.”
Many different laser manufacturers exist, and while it’s not necessarily helpful to name them all (especially considering many are referred to by numerical monikers), one that many people do know is Fraxel, which has an ablative and non-ablative form. “Ablative lasers do actually remove some layers of the skin and cause a little bleeding. They’re better for people who have more advanced acne scarring or pigmentation,” added Thomas.
You can buy at-home lasers, though these operate at a much milder setting than anything that might be used in clinic. “Quite often clients will come in convinced that they can fix something with laser, and I’ll actually suggest a much milder laser and something like a peel instead – it’s always worth getting an expert opinion from someone who really understands the physiology of the skin,” noted Thomas. This is especially true for darker skin types, who don’t always respond as well to laser. “Being in central London, my clinic is equipped to handle any client with any skin tone,” explained Thomas. “And we can adjust and tailor treatments as needed, but there are some lasers that would be dangerous on darker skin tones, so ensure you get a thorough consultation.” If your practitioner doesn’t tailor treatment accordingly, the naturally higher pigment found in darker skins can react badly with laser, resulting in permanent scarring and discolouration.
Providing you’re in good hands, laser can be a fabulous addition to a skincare routine. When done right it adds dewiness, plumpness and boosts collagen production, and often with very little downtime.
What are radio frequency and microcurrent?
Let’s move away from light and into movement. “Radiofrequency is essentially a bulk way of heating the skin,” explained Dr Zamani. “It helps promote collagen synthesis, whereas microcurrent is an energy source that stimulates the facial muscles, which can give a toned and lifted appearance.”
Devices like NuFace are especially for popular for microcurrent and crop up in many a make-up artist’s kit. Dr Zamani was quick to point out that they do have to be used regularly to have an effect, and quipped, “Even I don’t have time for that, and I work in the industry!”
Another one that is sometimes mentioned in the same breath is ultrasound. “Ultrasound delivers energy beneath the skin in a very targeted way that can also help boost collagen, firm, lift, increase elasticity…it’s all around very helpful,” added Dr Zamani.
As you might have gathered, the best way to reap the benefits of these facials is to see an experienced practitioner who can advise on the kind of cocktail you might want. It might be a light laser to remove pigmentation, and then ultrasound to help the hydration portion of your facial work that bit better. Of course, there is absolutely such a thing as doing too much, and both Dr Zamani and Thomas advised against over-zealous home treatments, especially in combination with peels or prescription-strength products.
Otherwise, in the right hands, these space-age treatments can provide visible results without the invasiveness of a needle, or indeed, the downtime that came with them in years gone by. Happy zapping.
