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Geetie Singh-Watson is constantly stopped in the street by inquisitive neighbours. “Opening an organic pub in Devon is profoundly different to London where the experience is so much more anonymous. Here in Totnes there’s so much more attention from the local community,” says the ethical entrepreneur. “There’s a real sense of accountability.”
She has just opened the doors to her most recent project, The Bull Inn, which has been two years in the making after an extensive £1.5 million renovation.
It’s a labour of love and Singh-Watson has pushed the boundaries in terms of sustainability. From ensuring all ingredients are seasonal and never air-freighted to choosing organic cotton bed linen, she’s determined to prove that success isn’t all about profit margins.
Singh-Watson made her name opening Britain’s first organic pub, The Duke of Cambridge in Islington, 23 years ago. And while the term can conjure up an image of elitism, The Bull is subtler than that. The ever-changing menu doesn’t specifically mention organic, and prices aren’t inflated unnecessarily.
Behind the scenes, strong ethics run throughout but they’re not thrust down the throats of diners. But maybe they should be. Not only is energy in the building conserved via solar panels and a heat recovery unit, staff are given a say in shift structures and the day-to-day running of the business. There’s a lot to brag about.
An environmental activist, Singh-Watson is showing her team how to steer clear of fast consumerism. It’s taken her years of trawling through antiques markets, vintage fairs and auctions to find enough reclaimed and upcycled items to furnish the eight boutique bedrooms. Where these couldn’t meet requirements, she commissioned artisans. Pippi & Me crafted ceramic lamps while room signs were hand-cut from recycled metal by friend Trisha O’Hare.
Beautiful décor and ethics are all well and good, but Singh-Watson knows that if the food isn’t fantastic it’s a lost game. Head chef James Dodd is The Bull’s pièce de résistance. With dukkah to die for, fried sprouts with kimchi that sold out on opening night, and silky-smooth coffee panna cotta, everything tastes better knowing Singh-Watson and Dodd are so picky when choosing sustainable and ethical suppliers. “Our aim with The Bull is to show that you can work with integrity and succeed,” Singh-Watson says. “Hospitality and business models need shaking up. We’ve got to find a way to live and enjoy life sustainably, and I believe that’s an exciting thing.”
Details
Rooms from £120, includes breakfast. The Bull Inn, Rotherfold Square, Little Totnes, Totnes, TQ9 5SN. Trains from Paddington to Totnes from £20 when booked in advance. bullinntotnes.co.uk
