There are few conversations within this industry that have become as profoundly important as that surrounding sustainability. As the climate crisis hurtles with ferocious velocity towards the point of no return, examining both the environmental and human impact of consumption is clearly crucial. The world of fine jewellery is far from exempt from these discussions, and the ways in which sustainably sourced and “developed” diamonds are now being incorporated within the arena is becomingly increasingly innovative: case in point, Dover Street Market’s new project with Diamond Foundry.
This week, DSM launches a collection designed by six of its favourite fine jewellers, incorporating carbon-neutral “above ground” diamonds created in American laboratories using a plasma reactor. “The innovation in technology is something that is very aligned to Dover Street Market’s ethos,” says DSM’s vice president Dickon Bowden of a process which uses atomic science to layer diamond strata atop each other. “Pushing the boundaries of what exists in order to find something new and interesting.”
Launching both at Dover Street Market and online through FarFetch, and starring designers from Michèle Lamy to Delfina Delettrez, the collection is a testament to both the creative innovation of the set and the potential of new, sustainable technologies. Here, the designers explain how the collaboration inspired them to think differently and incorporate new processes within the time-tested traditions of their field.
Hunrod
“Hunrod, in a sense, is about ‘non-jewellery’… All bronze and silver with stones from the sandy paths,” explains Michèle Lamy of her brand, which translates her idiosyncratic aesthetic into pieces at once thoroughly raw and resolutely fine. “With this project, the challenge was to turn it into jewellery with these diamonds. Perhaps that is why the snake appears… sneaky.” That sneaky, sparkling snake – writhing around a chunky gold-and-bronze base – appears curiously compelling, and speaks to a somewhat Edenic utopian fantasy. “The Diamond Foundry is a mystery to me!” exclaims Lamy. “Maybe a way to recreate the world… who knows!”
Delfina Delettrez
“Since I truly believe that the lab-grown diamonds are an ethical alternative for customers, I didn’t feel the need to develop a precise new style. I adapted my styles to [Diamond Foundry’s] different diamond cuts in order to offer an option to customers,” explains Delfina Delettrez about evolving her “pierced” range. “As I am a jeweller of my generation, I want to craft the classics of tomorrow.”
Hum
“By the time these rings were completed, there were many different perspectives and influences,” explain Tomohiro Sadakiyo and Yuka Inanuma of Hum, which incorporates developed diamonds, regenerated gold and platinum, a craftsmanship-focused production process and Japanese technology. “We believe that the opportunity to think from a multi-faceted perspective is very important. What we wanted to express with these rings is a symbol of ‘think differently’.” With set stones suspended as charms from delicate rings, the potential for new cuts and stones developed through Diamond Foundry offered the opportunity to “create diamonds which we never imagined,” they say. “We think these technologies are potentially epoch-making and send a strong message about what is possible.”
Raphaele Canot
“This collaboration was an amazing opportunity to think outside of the box,” explains Raphaele Canot, whose three pieces within the capsule can be worn in classic layers around the neck or transformed into cross-body or waistline chains. After all, “new cuts are an excellent opportunity for more playful and less traditional jewellery designs.” Her elegant, irreverent designs pay tribute to what she believes is a new chapter for jewellery, which uses newly manufactured stones. “Created diamonds don’t carry the weight of Mother Earth,” she reflects. “They don’t carry the romance, but a new story of performance based on Diamond Foundry’s state-of-the-art technology.”
Sophie Bille Brahe
“I saw this [project] as an opportunity to work with bigger stones in a more playful way,” explains Danish designer Sophie Bille Brahe of the new adaptations of her sculptural Elipse earring. Balancing giant “above ground” diamonds upon a white gold thread, they are at once elegant and impactful: a modern way to drip in enormous stones.
Ana Khouri
“Rather than look outward for inspiration, I strive to capture the boundless energy and defiant originality within,” explains Ana Khouri of her work, which presents impressive stones within a remarkably contemporary context. Here, for example, a wealth of different diamond cuts are suspended from a white gold and pavé necklace, or a chunky white gold chain sparkling with diamonds becomes a somewhat utilitarian earring. It’s an impressive feat to make that many diamonds appear so resolutely modern – but Khouri achieves it with finesse.
