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“I am a huge advocate of physical stores,” says Browns Fashion CEO Holli Rogers, as we discuss the future of retail on the eve of the store’s 50th anniversary.
With a spreading virus, faltering economy and forced store closures, 2020 has been a year of reckoning for fashion retail in the UK; and as more and more us buy fashion online, the future of Britain’s high street hangs in the balance.
Despite the gloomy outlook however, Rogers is optimistic.
“The online space is fantastic in the sense that brands have the opportunity to talk to a global audience 24-7, however when you get into a store environment you get that human and physical interaction which is hard to replicate in the online space,” she continues.
Rogers, who worked at Chanel, Neiman Marcus and Net-a-Porter (as a founding member), before taking the helm at Browns when it was acquired by Farfetch in 2015, has overseen a company rebrand and applied her keen curators eye to the Browns buy, adding a whole host of interesting new designers across men’s and womenswear to the range.
Today’s exciting edit is a continuation of the legacy of the store’s founder Joan Burstein, CBE who launched Browns with her late husband Sidney in 1970, as the UK’s first multi-brand luxury boutique. Browns has always excelled in both attracting and spotting fashion talent – Burnstein famously (and presciently) snapped up Galliano’s graduate collection, while Manolo Blahnik once worked on the shop floor of the South Molton Street store.
Read on for more from Rogers on her current favourite brands, her thoughts on why Browns has managed to flourish through a crisis, and on the future of retail in general.
What is Browns Fashion’s key to success, do you think?
Since the moment the doors of our South Molton Street store opened in 1970, Browns has been known for its pioneering spirit and an incubator for the best fashion talent both established and next generation.
When looking at Browns success I keep going back to the word bijou – it’s the curation and edit that makes Browns and having the best of the best across both product and service. Today, Browns continues to innovate and take risks; Mrs B was the first to introduce the likes Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein to the UK and continues today with the likes of Conner Ives and Collina Strada. We are all about championing and supporting new talent and mentoring them for seasons to come.
Can you tell me a bit about the toll Covid has taken on Browns and its brands?
2020 has come with its unexpected challenges and it’s most certainly a year that we’ll never forget. Our stores were closed for over three months and the response from our customers when we re-opened was incredible. Our brands are so important to us; we opted not to cancel orders from any of our designers.
For Browns, that was super important as we totally recognise that a lot of them are quite small and by cancelling an order, it could be devastating for them. We wanted to play our part and support where we could and part of that was just really taking the opportunity to connect, listen and find solutions where possible whether that meant shifting delivery dates or as we have been doing for some time now paying upfront for the young talent as we are acutely aware of what cash flow can do for a business.
Does the physical store have a place in fashion’s future?
Yes, absolutely. I am a huge advocate of physical stores when it comes to the future of retail which is one of the many reasons I joined Browns. The online space is fantastic in the sense that brands have the opportunity to talk to a global audience 24-7, however when you get into a store environment you get that human and physical interaction which is hard to replicate in the online space. I have no doubt that what is going to change over time is the way physical stores operate and service their customers; it’s about a seamless merge of a fantastic physical experience supported by exceptional retail teams, with powerful, yet subtle technology.
Today’s customers want convenience, and they also want to feel connected and inspired and technology is definitely allowing us to support a connected journey that goes beyond the physical store
Are you concerned about the future of the high street? What do you think high streets need to do to innovate and remain relevant for the future?
My experience relies heavily in the luxury space so this is a little harder for me to predict. I think fundamentally, it comes down to being able to fulfil the ever-evolving needs of the customers of tomorrow. Ultimately the younger generation of customers are across the board much more consciously minded. They are collectively looking at making more sustainably-led purchasing decisions and they are also looking at holding brands accountable
Fashion has had a reckoning in 2020. How much do you think the system needs to change? and in what ways?
I think it has changed. The impact of 2020 has brought out a lot of creativity in people and gave people the time to consider their businesses, what made sense to them and what culminated was actually something incredible and seeing how many were able to pivot and do what works for them was fantastic. In terms of fashion weeks, it has definitely become more democratic and I feel like there was more variety and people were being able to tell their story fully which I thought was amazing to see. Right now, people want transparency. The customer is really asking for that connection; they want craftsmanship and to know how things are made. I love that we’re moving away from that cycle of expectation.
Where do you see UK fashion in 5 years?
UK fashion continually pushes the boundaries and I think its home to some of the world’s most exciting designers. I hope to see more brands assessing their impact and moving forward with sustainable practices
Which designers have you got on your radar at the moment?
Being at Browns really allows me to engage with the best of the best, so I would have to say I am loving the likes of Richard Quinn as I’m craving dressing up, Kenneth Ize for his craftsmanship, Casablanca who creates incredible product that centres around his community, Marine Serre who is changing the narrative around sustainable fashion, the ever-talented Molly Goddard, Beth at Foundrae and for those more established guys I think Rick Owens is having a moment and of course Daniel Lee at Bottega Veneta with his must-have accessories. I also can’t wait to see Pfeiffer shoes launch at Browns – the hottest in sustainable footwear.
What are you excited about for the next 50 years of Browns?
For Browns, it will undeniably be a blend of physical and online. No one could have anticipated what 2020 had in store for us and it’s taught us the importance of having a truly omni-channel approach. Whilst the digital arena is accessible 24-7, the instore experience is in demand, more than ever before. The adoption of technology has definitely accelerated and through continued development in this arena, we’re on a journey to create the ultimate personal shopping experience and I’m excited for the next chapter of Browns history.
To celebrate 50 years in the business, Browns has created a campaign called ‘Browns 50: The Height of Fashion,’ featuring a line up of established and emerging actors, designers, models and musicians including Simone Rocha, Zawe Ashton, Winston Garvey, Maximilian Davis and Nick Grimshaw. See brownsfashion.com for more.
