What is the most spectacular walk in Britain? The ridges of Helvellyn, Snowdon or the Cuillins? Perhaps parts of the South West or the Pembrokeshire Coast Paths? All are great contenders, but for sheer sustained glory you would be hard pushed to beat the Cleveland Way’s coastal section between Staithes and Filey. I’ve done it several times, in both directions, and never failed to be satisfied. And yet, approximately half of the 110-mile path is inland, starting in Helmsley and taking a huge loop north then east before reaching the coast at Saltburn-by-the-Sea, 10 miles north of Staithes. I had never walked any of that moorland section, but this year, as the Cleveland Way celebrates its 50th birthday, I decide to put that right.
We start on a Friday: myself, partner Sophie and Wilf the fell terrier. Our plan was to begin near Osmotherley, 30-odd miles inland, and do the whole northern edge of the North York Moors, plus a 10-mile coastal section south from Saltburn to Staithes. But we are late and so begin at Kildale, a few miles further east, where there is a small railway station on the Middlesbrough-to-Whitby line (incidentally, a strong contender for most spectacular railway).
Wilf is going a bit wind-crazy when we reach our first waymark: Captain Cook’s monument on Easby Moor, an impressively isolated and lonely stone obelisk with magnificent views north towards Middlesbrough. We shelter in the lee of the stone for a while, then creep around to read the inscription: “[Cook] spread civilisation and the blessings of the Christian faith among pagan and savage tribes.” Which makes him sound more like a sanctimonious missionary than a practical navigator. It is definitely the latter that we need: the wind is howling, the map is soaked and I’ve forgotten the compass.
The weather gets wilder as we approach Roseberry Topping, a sturdy outlying peak the shape of a mini volcano. On the summit it’s scarcely possible to stand, and even Wilf seems glad to descend into the trees below. He’s even gladder when we get to our first halt, the King’s Head in Newton under Roseberry, as it’s dog-friendly, with treats on the bar and a comfy bed in the corner – which he immediately occupies. The pub has been renovated with spacious rooms and a friendly atmosphere. Sophie thinks the food “a bit unimaginative” (I’d say, “decent portions”). As for Wilf, he can’t believe he’s allowed a fried egg.
In the morning we are asked what do we want in our bait? There’s a pause. It turns out that “bait” is local dialect for packed lunch, an indication perhaps of how close the sea is. Back in the 18th century, when young James Cook was born a few miles from here, the coast was where everyone went to seek their fortune. Cook himself walked to Staithes and found his first job.
As we leave, a greenfinch perches on a wire, an omen for a day of wild nature. The wind has gone and the sun is out. Up on the moor all the ponds are full of frogspawn and the frogs are honking with glee. Curlews come warbling over. Lapwings do crazy aerial cartwheels. The path is largely a well-made, stone-flagged trail that curls along the escarpment, dips through woods, and stutters around some housing. In places, the waymarking is poor, but a local voice always seems to pipe up: “Doing the Cleveland Way? Go down here…”
Eventually we drop into a steep-sided wooded valley where a lovely river winds down under a viaduct and takes us into Saltburn. Close to the town, the valley sides have been restored to their 19th-century splendour. In fact, Saltburn is a quite splendid discovery, presiding over a huge swathe of sandy beach, a cliff railway and a pier. There’s a surf shop and great fish and chip restaurant too: it’s a kind of funky Victoriana.
When I take Wilf down for a run on the sand a bit later, I am half-expecting to see the locals surfing in top hats and tailcoats, but an icy wind is slicing in from the north, so they are just standing on the pier, looking at the waves, dressed in T-shirts.
We stay at the Spa Hotel, conveniently right on the Cleveland Way, and also dog-friendly. We retreat to the comfy bar and restaurant. Wilf can’t believe his luck again: more treats on the counter.
Next morning we have sunshine and a few miles of coastal walking. While villages to the south have become tourist honeypots, this section of coast remains staunchly undeveloped for visitors, yet no less spectacular. In Skinningrove, we get an instant coffee at the corner shop and admire the public toilets – built in memory of the shipwrecked crew of a Norwegian barque stranded here in 1901. The sandy beach is stunning, and empty.
The last section of path takes us up to 203 metres, over the highest sea cliffs on the east coast of England, before we drop down to our finish in Staithes, arguably the prettiest village, with the Cod and Lobster, the best pub. Across the cobbled lane is the place where James Cook worked, standing in the grocer’s window, staring out to sea. My affection for the remainder of the path ahead, all the way to Filey, is unwavering, but my favourite hike has just got longer.
• The trip was provided by the North York Moors national park. The King’s Head in Newton under Roseberry has Walk-Inn breaks from £85pp, including dinner, packed lunch (bait), boot cleaning and a waterproof OS walking pack containing 20 classic walks; and doubles from £99 room-only. Doubles/twins at the Spa Hotel in Saltburn start from £79 B&B
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