Travel

Boutique cruising from Denmark to Estonia and Russia on a Saga liner built for Brits


“WE only have half an hour before our evening excursion so what can we have? Fast food, please!”

The smiling waiter in the Coast to Coast restaurant on Saga’s fabulous new ship Spirit Of Discovery didn’t miss a beat. “No problem,” he said. “Lobster thermidor?”

 The Spirit of Discovery is Saga's liner built specifically for Brits and takes a maximum of 990 passengers on a variety of different sailings

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The Spirit of Discovery is Saga’s liner built specifically for Brits and takes a maximum of 990 passengers on a variety of different sailingsCredit: All images are Saga Group Limited. Images may only be used with the company’s express pe

Now, that’s my kind of fast food. He served us a glass of Sauvignon blanc while we waited just ten minutes for the half a lobster arrived. Juicy bite-size chunks with a few chips and salad. Heaven.

We were then in plenty of time to join a walking tour of Swedish capital Stockholm’s old town, Gamla Stan.

Wrapped up in raincoats on a damp October evening, we took in the sights of this medieval district. The trading port, with its cobbled streets, is amazingly well preserved.

The restaurants looked inviting but all the best walks end in a bar — and this was no exception.

Later, back on board, I began to regret booking so many excursions at the next few ports of call.

 Every cabin on board the Spirit of Discovery has a balcony

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Every cabin on board the Spirit of Discovery has a balconyCredit: Julian Franklin

While I wanted to explore Finnish capital Helsinki, St. Petersburg in Russia and Estonian capital Tallinn, I also wanted to enjoy the fabulous new ship — the first time Saga has built a liner from scratch for its loyal British customers.There are not enough hours in the day to try all the activities on offer as well as sit on the balcony of the cabin enjoying the autumn sunshine and beautiful views.

For me, walking is a must, and I loved the promenade deck — promising sunshine one minute and black clouds the next. I could just pop back inside if the heavens opened.

Then where next? The library is a favourite among the many Saga returnees but I was tempted by the spa. I spent a happy hour in the hydro-therapy suite, warm bubbles massaging the muscles I would have worked hard had I found time to go the yoga, stretch class, or gym.

Somehow I did always find time to enjoy the food. I tried all the restaurants — and there are a fair few.

 The Church of the Savior on Spilled Blood in St Petersburg. The cruise offers numerous excursions with two days given to explore the Russian city and was the highlight of the trip

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The Church of the Savior on Spilled Blood in St Petersburg. The cruise offers numerous excursions with two days given to explore the Russian city and was the highlight of the tripCredit: Getty – Contributor

Unlike some other cruises, wine is included with lunch and dinner, as well as Prosecco with afternoon tea — a real treat.

I loved the elegant Grand Dining room with its ornate balconies and chandeliers, while the Grill with its airy veranda was perfect when the sun shone. The Club by Jools, a steak-house created with musician Jools Holland, had a club vibe with its live music.

East to West’s contemporary Asian cuisine also hit the spot. The enthusiastic chefs patiently explained their dishes and were proud of the results.

Chatting to fellow travellers over lunch or breakfast, I was surprised how many were Saga regulars — a friendly bunch from all walks of life.

One thing they shared was an appreciation of the ship’s crew and service. They also loved the entertainment.

 A square in Stockholm's Gamia Stan island. The guests took in a walking tour of the island

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A square in Stockholm’s Gamia Stan island. The guests took in a walking tour of the islandCredit: Corbis – Getty
 Jools Holland has helped create a steak-house on board while musical entertainment caters for all tastes

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Jools Holland has helped create a steak-house on board while musical entertainment caters for all tastes

There is music for all tastes on offer in the bars or lounge, where the Silver Line Showband and Dance Hosts even got me on the floor.

Spirit Of Discovery is Saga’s biggest ship, taking a maximum of 990 passengers.

But it is a minnow among other liners — and all the better for it. Boutique cruising, they call it. Well, it’s a big, spacious boutique then — and ALL balcony cabins. The disembarkation routine is also slick — no waiting an age to be called for excursions. We made our own way to the gangplank at a set time, where a quick zap of your room keycard, and labelling of our excursion ticket with a coach number was done in seconds.

The Explore Ashore team could also organise trips for those who did not want to join the large group excursions.

 A thriving market in the Estonian capital Tallinn, one of the stop offs on the Splendour of the Baltic tour

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A thriving market in the Estonian capital Tallinn, one of the stop offs on the Splendour of the Baltic tourCredit: Getty – Contributor

I am ashamed to admit I probably tested their patience. Lost ticket? Another supplied. Change of mind? Trip duly changed.

But an undoubted highlight of the cruise itinerary was two days to explore St. Petersburg.

Visiting from a cruise ship means no lengthy visa process, although you need to join an official tour — and Saga had hundreds to choose from. We began with the Local Life excursion that included the chance to travel on the city’s famous metro.

The stations were works of art, with marble columns, chandeliers in one, statues, paintings and mosaics.

The tour ended with an hour or so free for shopping — or more eating.

Within minutes I was enjoying a macaroon with a pot of Russian tea at the Eliseyev Emporium on Nevskiy Prospect, the main shopping street. The store’s 1903 interior was opulent, gilded, draped and just full of delicious-looking pastries.

Next day we joined the oddly named Spilled Blood Cathedral and Canal Cruise excursion. It was a great way to see the city’s astonishing palaces and architecture — and we heard the noon boom of the cannon on the Peter And Paul Fortress.

Several of the bridges we cruised under were only a few inches higher than my head while seated. So do not stand up, unless you want to get decapitated.

We returned tired but elated to the Spirit Of Discovery, knowing there was still so much more to explore on board.

GO: SPIRIT OF DISCOVERY

SPIRIT Of Discovery’s inaugural season features a host of different sailings.

A four-night all-inclusive mini cruise from Southampton to Rouen is from £1,011pp, four-night all-inclusive from Dover to Great Yarmouth and Amsterdam is from £1,117pp.

The 14-night Splendour of the Baltic from Dover visiting Skagen, Denmark, Estonia, Helsinki, St Petersburg and Tallin is from £3,937pp including chauffeur service up to 250 miles to Dover, all meals on board, including 24-hour room service, all on-board gratuities.

There are optional travel insurance, entertainment and activities, welcome cocktail party and Captain’s dinner, available all port taxes and visas. To book, call 0800 50 50 30 or see travel.saga. co.uk/cruises/ocean





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