First timers in Bangkok can be easily overwhelmed by the sheer choices of places to eat, unfamiliar dishes and Thai only signs.
The best way to navigate this is to be guided by a local.
Saiphin Moore of Rosa’s Thai Cafe took us around some of her favourite Bangkok eateries, telling us: you have to eat street food! It’s a must, especially at the night markets. This is when Bangkok comes alive.’
And so we began with a street food safari in Yaorawat, Bangkok’s bustling Chinatown. Have pad thai if you must but there are so many more dishes to discover.
Rolled noodles
Kuay Jab Nay Lek , 362 Yaowarat Rd, Khwaeng Chakkrawat, Bangkok
Possibly the best Thai noodles you’ve never heard of. These are unusual rice noodles that are like long rolled macaroni. Order them in soup or dry and take your pick of toppings including tripe, intestine, kidneys and meatballs, all served in a peppery clear bone broth.
For maximum impact, you have to add all the other condiments on the table – sugar, chilli flakes, vinegar. This Michelin rated stall is very popular with locals, so be prepared to queue.
Tom yum soup
Tom Yum is a hot and sour, layered with flavours of lemongrass, kafir lime leaves and fish sauce. In Bangkok, you’ll find the southern version with coconut milk. Try tom yum prawn or with some noodles.
Som tam papaya salad
This hot, sour and spicy papaya salad is everywhere in Bangkok.
Made with shredded green papaya, dried shrimp, chillis, lime, tomatoes, fish sauce and lime juice and usually served with sticky rice, look out for the rare ones that add pickled baby crabs.
Deep fried flowers
Never Ending Summer, 41/5 Charoen Nakhon Rd, Khwaeng Khlong San, Bangkok.
Deep fried flowers are found in many Thai dishes. Today it’s harder to find as foraging is rare. Here, they serve a variety of colourful blooms in a crispy tempura light coating with a dipping sauce.
Boat noodles
These noodles got their name from being sold from boats on floating markets. They are rice noodles in a soup, served with pork and beef and meatballs.
The soup is enriched with nam tok, usually from pigs’ of cows’ blood, and is usually garnished with herbs, bean sprouts, garlic, chilli flakes and pork crackling and basil.
Khanom jaen fermented noodles
Another unusual noodle dish with many regional variations.
Fermented rice noodles are served with a spicy fish-based broth or a peanut sauce. You top each dish with a boiled egg, salted mustard greens, bean sprouts and fresh herbs. Add the soup and of course, don’t forget the condiments: chilli flakes, chilli paste and sugar. Full of fresh flavours and umami. This will be your new favourite once you’ve had it once.
Grilled squid
You will smell these barbecued squids before you see them. These stalls are dotted along the main street and the squids are grilled to order. When ready, they’re chopped into bite-sized pieces and drenched in a hot and spicy dipping sauce.
Crab dip
Sri Trat, 90 Sukhumvit 33 Alley, Khwaeng Khlong Tan Nuea, Bangkok
Sri Trat is one of the new wave of Thai restaurants, featuring the cuisine of the South East of Thailand. Elevating home cooking using authentic Thai recipes.
The crab dip they serve here is iconic. It is a pot full of herbal coconut herbal sauce made with lump crab meat and crab roe, served with a basket of fresh herbs and vegetables like baby aubergines and four angled beans for dipping.
Betel leaf wrapped deep fried Ruby fish with tamarind sauce
Sri Trat
A variation of the popular snack Miang Kham, usually filled with dried shrimps, peanut, coconut, ginger, lime and chillis. This reinvented dish uses pieces of fried Ruby fish as the main ingredient which is wrapped with all the other condiments above and drenched in a tamarind sauce.
The combined textures and flavours create the most delicious morsel.
Roast duck rice
Prachak Roast Duck, 1415 Charoen Krung Rd, Bangkok
A popular Thai Chinese dish, five spice roasted duck on rice is a one plate meal. You will find this at most food courts but no-frills Prachak is reputed to the best. They’ve been around for over 100 years.
Thai crispy pancakes (Kanom Buang)
They look like tacos but are sweet pancakes, usually found on street food stalls. They are usually topped with egg yolk threads.
Mango and sticky rice
Boon Sap Dessert, 1478 Charoen Krung Rd, Khwaeng Bang Rak, Bangkok
Thai mangos are sweet and perfumed and when in season, you will find this dessert everywhere. Sliced and served with sweet sticky rice and drizzled with thick coconut milk.
How to get there and where to stay:
Getting to Bangkok
Flights to Bangkok with Thai Airways start from £505. There are two daily flights from London Heathrow. Take a taxi or train into central Bangkok.
Where to stay
The Hua Chang Heritage Hotel is a contemporary hotel located minutes away from the Siam Square, MBK shopping mall, canal boat and Sky Train station. Prices from £70 a night.
