The new vital ingredients
Hyaluronic Acid and AHAs have become standard ingredients in most skincare regimes (do add them, they will plump and refine your skin no end). But there are other kids on the block vying for your attention, too. Bakuchiol – the new Retinol – is known to even out skin tone, combat hyperpigmentation and smooth fine lines without the irritation normally associated with more hardcore alternatives. Many skincare products are formulated in a way that strips all the bacteria from our skin – which sounds like a good thing, but actually it’s not. A layer of good bacteria permanently residing on our skin protects against premature ageing and skin ailments, such as eczema. Probiotic-led brands, such as Aurelia Probiotic Skincare and Mother Dirt – the only brand on the market with a patented live strain of good bacteria – will help restore the balance. In the UK, essences, somewhat confusingly also known as lotions, are still quite niche. In Asia, however, these concentrated liquids are a key part of daily skincare rituals. They are an easy way to drench skin in hydration while enabling all subsequent products to work even harder. My current favourites are from NYDG, Dior, Fresh and Clé de Peau. None are particularly cheap, but they do last a long time and the difference they make to your skin is nothing short of startling.
Doctor brands
You can trust doctors to deliver, right? Actually, not always. There are so many “doctor brands” on the market, but here are the ones I know work. Murad is one of my favourites. It’s incredibly inclusive (every skincare concern is covered) and their facials are among the best on the high street. Dr Maryam Zamani is a surgeon and aesthetic doctor at the respectable Cadogan Clinic. Her specialism is the eye – I’m still on the fence about eye creams – but her line, particularly the Cleans and Clarify AHA Cleanser and Mask, is brilliant.
There isn’t a beauty editor who doesn’t worship at the altar of Dr Dennis Gross. His cult product is Alpha Beta Peel pads. They will completely transform the texture of your skin. Dr Barbara Sturm, the German doctor behind the controversial vampire facial, has an eponymous line that also includes a range of products created specifically for darker skin tones. Dr Lancer is the dermatologist to the stars – the Kardashians, Victoria Beckham, Beyoncé – and his Method: Polish is one of the few textured exfoliators I would recommend.
Dr Michael Prager – also beloved of the A-list and the fashion crowd – is one of Europe’s most sought-after aestheticians. Usually he is the go-to for tweakments, but his superb Urban Protect range, chock full of antioxidants, focuses on protecting city dwellers from the effects of pollution.
Dr Jack is also a favourite of the fashion cognoscenti. His teeny but considered line features serums and a home peel that will give you clinic-level results. Dr Sebagh is known as the botox king, but I’ve always been more interested in his Deep Exfoliating Mask. (It works wonders on uneven skin tones – there’s a reason it’s known as a pre-party facial in a pot – but it does tingle, so it’s better for more hardy skin.) Dr Sam Bunting’s range is perfect for sensitive skin. Not only does her Flawless cleanser – a fragrance-free, non-foaming gel formula – actually clean, it is the antidote to the harsh, “it gets worse before it gets better” mantra, which too many doctor brands live by.
The beauty podcasts
My thinking on treatments such as fillers, botox and the like (aka tweakments), is that if you are having regular high-performance facials, following a good skincare regime and living a healthy (not necessarily perfect) lifestyle, you won’t need to go down the route of injectables. If you are curious, however (because, after all, it is a free country), the very least you should do is arm yourself with the knowledge to make an informed choice. The Guinea Pig podcast is an unfiltered insight into the latest aesthetic treatments.
The presenters are Fiona Golfar – the former editor at large of British Vogue – and Dr Maryam Zamani, a surgeon and founder of cult beauty brand MZ Skin. Golfar is the resident guinea pig – trying and considering treatments (invasive and non-invasive) so you don’t have to – while Zamani is the expert voice of reason. Everything is in layman’s terms. It’s honest, objective and, at times, very funny.
Another podcast on the same subject comes from The Editor’s List. Founded by beauty journalist Olivia Falcon, it offers a guide to the world’s best cosmetic surgeons, doctors and dermatologists. The podcast includes deep-dive conversations with some of the world’s most prolific skincare and cosmetic surgery experts on everything from the social impact of injectable treatments to the future of botox. Even if you have no intention of having a face or a bum lift, it makes fascinating listening.
Haute couture beauty
In recent years, I’ve been slightly obsessed with high-low skincare. These are high-performance, low-priced beauty products by brands such as Beauty Pie, Deciem and Inkey, because I believe these days you don’t always have to spend a fortune for good skin. I have, however, noticed a fascinating pendulum shift into something I call haute-couture beauty. These skincare products, generally with complex formulations, usually cost three-figure sums – the sort of purchases that make your lip quiver and your heart race as you get your credit card out. The impact on your skin is much more positive.
Augustinus Bader is the stem cell scientist who has got the skincare world in a frenzy. His research into the skin-repair process of burns victims proved that stem-cell technology was beneficial to numerous skincare concerns, from acne to ageing. So he bottled it. His multi award-winning moisturisers have been touted as the only face creams worth spending money on.
Japanese beauty brands are at the heart of this movement. Decorté, one of the best-selling and most prestigious skincare brands in Asia, has recently made its debut in the UK. The entire line is based on a combination of mind-boggling innovation and ancient eastern medicine. (Its exquisite hero product, Moisture Liposome Serum, is a hydrating dream and relatively affordable.) Their more prestigious launch, AQ Meliority, does feature creams with a price tag similar to that of a secondhand car.
The arrival of Clé de Peau, another Japanese brand that has recently landed in the UK, was highly anticipated, such is its cult status. Recently I’ve been using their Hydro Softening Lotion and, goodness me, the results are utterly phenomenal. As Japan is well known for its technological advances in skincare, other skincare brands look to the east. One of the key ingredients in the newly launched Tom Ford Research line is gyokuro. This highly concentrated green tea, known for its smoothing and antioxidant qualities, is found in each of Ford’s luxurious face creams.
The question is: “How much is too much to spend?” Well, it depends on what it is; no one needs to spend three figures on a cleanser. Also, how unique is the formulation? Personally, I have found the rigorous research and exquisite formulas in Japanese beauty brands, such as Shiseido, manifest into the best skin I’ve ever had.
And, finally, what’s your bank saying? Don’t start a skincare regime you can’t afford.
Cosmeceuticals
A cosmeceutical is a skincare product that has medical properties. You find them in specialist retailers, clinics and medi spas. They are not sexy. But you won’t care about that when you discover how high performance they are. One of my favourites is Medik8. The cleansers – problem solvers that unclog pores, revive dull skin and boost hydration – are particularly excellent. As are those from pharmaceutical grade brand iS Clinical. Its Cleansing Complex is effective, but gentle, on acneic skin. SkinCeuticals is on every skincare aficionado’s essential list. CE Ferulic is its best-selling antioxidant serum, which improves signs of photo-ageing, fine lines and lack of elasticity. It is small and pricey, but nothing compares to it.
NeoStrata is something of a beauty pioneer – it started using AHAs more than 40 years ago. Try the potent Illuminating Serum – you’ll see brighter skin in a week.
Skincare emporiums There’s no denying the impact of the digital age on how we now shop for beauty – it’s so much easier and more convenient. (I wouldn’t recommend online for foundations though – that rarely ends well.) Nevertheless, retail spaces dedicated to skincare have become a thing because it turns out skintellectuals – consumers with a growing intelligence about skincare trends, ingredients and products – also like the tangibility of bricks and mortar.
Knightsbridge beauty retailers have recently tapped into this. Harrods’ newly opened skincare emporium is a paean to the epidermis. Clean/non-toxic, doctor-led Japanese beauty brands, as well as numerous facial treatments, are available here. Harvey Nichols has also expanded its skincare offering by launching the Light Salon’s infra-red technology facials and Face Place, the facial brand beloved by Hollywood for its skilled extraction process (your pores have never been so clean).
For those who find department stores anxiety-inducing, Space NK offers a glorious curation of niche and establishment brands – from La Mer to Drunk Elephant. You’ll find branches dotted all over the country. If you prefer an even smaller space, try Omniya. It’s so small you could almost be shopping in your living room. Almost.
The good facialists
Many people don’t believe in facials. But you would if you found the right one, though claims to rejuvenate and refresh the skin (and all those other useless and ambiguous terms) are worthless. A great facial is rarely super-relaxing, but what would you prefer? Declogged, clear, glowing skin that looks incredible sans makeup – or having to tolerate whale music while someone faffs around with your face only to leave you looking exactly the same as you did when you walked in?
A good facialist should deliver striking, immediate results. Jasmina Vico is always ahead of the game with technological advancements in treatments and skincare. She was using cryotherapy in her facials long before anyone knew what it was.
Getting an appointment with the Duchess of Sussex’s facialist, Sarah Chapman, might be a long shot, but you can try her (excellent) team at her eponymous clinic. The rooms are a little too bright and clinical for my liking, but the clarity of my skin – helped by the state-of-the-art gadgets, amazing facial massage and one of the best extracting processes I’ve ever experienced – totally make up for it. Aesthetician Dija Ayodele is the founder of the Black Skin Directory. What she doesn’t know about skin – black or otherwise – could fit on the tip of a needle. You only have to look at Dr Ewoma’s skin to understand why she is called the “Skn Doctor” – it is startlingly luminous. Dr Barbara Kubicka’s signature facial, deeply cleanses, plumps skin and improves circulation. And if you never believed in the power of a facial massage (gives incredible definition) visit Abigail James. By the end, you’ll be a convert.
The sunscreen question
You may or may not be aware of the debate raging as to whether we should still be wearing sunscreen. As someone who encourages everyone to use sun protection, this has been disconcerting. The issue revolves around ingredients – some such as oxybenzone have been found to be environmentally unfriendly. Then there’s the case of Vitamin D. There is a global growth in Vitamin D deficiency that many argue is caused by wearing too much sunscreen. (This came as a surprise to me seeing as most people I know still don’t wear sunscreen regularly.) Last year, 13 of the world’s leading skin experts held a panel to dissect, discuss and debate the Vitamin D theory. They came to the conclusion that the daily wearing of sunscreens should not affect the level of Vitamin D in a healthy adult – sunscreen still allows the production of Vitamin D and the evidence still points to sunscreen being good for us. So, long story short, I’d carry on wearing sunscreen, but keep it non-toxic. REN is one of the champions of clean beauty and this also applies to their sunscreen. For darker skin tones, however, Coola and Soleil Toujours are more suitable as they don’t leave an ashy tint.
I don’t expect this is the end of the saga, but what is beyond dispute is that sunscreen decreases the potential for hyperpigmentation and skin cancer. For now, that’s good enough for me.
Facial devices
Foreo’s rubbery cleansers not only clean your skin but have a massaging function, too
Are facial tools worth spending your money on? Sometimes. There are many I wouldn’t waste my money on. Like any crystal rollers. Yes, they claim to tone and define your face, but that requires a lot of elbow grease. Also the questionable ethics and origins behind most crystals are likely to weigh on your conscience. Instead, use a microcurrent device from NuFace. Not only does it improve facial contour without manual labour, it also boosts the production of collagen and elastin. An initial starting point, however, might be a cleansing device. It’s an investment, but as you’ll be using it daily, the cost per use becomes negligible. A Foreo – a rubbery circular cleansing device – will not only up your face-washing game, but make your cleansers work a million times better. The massaging function has a lymphatic drainage effect that will rid your skin of puffiness and increase your circulation. And unlike most cleansing devices, the bristles don’t harbour bacteria. Clarisonic will also revolutionise your cleansing regime – just make sure you keep the brush clean. Dermaplaning is a technique that has changed my skin immeasurably. It is a treatment that exfoliates and removes fuzz from your face. Yes, OK, it’s basically a form of skin shaving. Sounds terrifying? Just try it (using the Dermaflash Facial Device). You’ll find with your facial hair out of the way, your skin products suddenly become mind-blowingly efficient and you’ll have incredible skin. And no, the hair does not grow back thicker. That is a myth.
Wellness meets beauty
The holistic approach to skincare – one that tackles symptoms and causes through the lens of health and wellbeing – makes total sense. Many grown-ups are still dealing with breakouts because their stress levels are high. High stress levels produce cortisol, which is bad news for skin. And so the divide between topical beauty and healthcare is beginning to be bridged. The most talked about ingredient in this area is CBD (cannabidiol). This is a compound derived from the cannabis plant (it’s not the bit that gets you high) that is said to protect the skin from oxidative stress, relieve pain and anxiety, and is anti-inflammatory. There is still a lot of research that needs to be done to substantiate the claims, and with brands including the ingredient in everything from mascara to toothpaste, it is difficult to be 100% sold on it. Disciple, however, is one of the more authentic brands using CBD in its formulations. Their calming Miracle Drops – taken orally – are great for stress and anxiety. Stress control was also the thinking behind the launch of Glow Bar. Its infrared saunas – where you sit and sweat for up to 45 minutes – have been proven to release endorphins. This helps lower cortisol levels which, again, is great news for the skin. Urban Retreat is a newly open 12,000 sqft space in London dedicated to wellness and beauty. It houses a cleanse clinic (they do colonics) and the best international holistic and medical doctors, which keeps it from veering into New Age territory.
Skincare emporiums
There’s no denying the impact of the digital age on how we now shop for beauty – it’s so much easier and more convenient. (I wouldn’t recommend online for foundations though – that rarely ends well.) Nevertheless, retail spaces dedicated to skincare have become a thing because it turns out skintellectuals – consumers with a growing intelligence about skincare trends, ingredients and products – also like the tangibility of bricks and mortar.
Knightsbridge beauty retailers have recently tapped into this. Harrods’ newly opened skincare emporium is a paean to the epidermis. Clean/non-toxic, doctor-led Japanese beauty brands, as well as numerous facial treatments, are available here. Harvey Nichols has also expanded its skincare offering by launching the Light Salon’s infra-red technology facials and Face Place, the facial brand beloved by Hollywood for its skilled extraction process (your pores have never been so clean).
For those who find department stores anxiety-inducing, Space NK offers a glorious curation of niche and establishment brands – from La Mer to Drunk Elephant. You’ll find branches dotted all over the country. If you prefer an even smaller space, try Omniya. It’s so small you could almost be shopping in your living room. Almost.
Follow Funmi on Twitter @FunmiFetto
