Before becoming vegetarian, I was a nose-to-tail eater, a philosophy coined by chef Fergus Henderson that celebrates the whole animal by cooking with every part, and wasting nothing. This zero-waste approach has repopularised offal and cheaper cuts, yet most meat sales are still high-on-the-hog, prime cuts.
You may be wondering why a vegetarian is writing about meat. Animal agriculture has a huge impact on our planet, and in my opinion eating more plants is key to reducing this, but for the many that do eat meat, eating less, and choosing better-quality, cheaper cuts, also helps considerably. I’m vegetarian, not because meat isn’t delicious, but because, to my mind, it’s a more mindful way of eating. That’s why I’m an advocate for good animal agriculture, too.
Prawn shells are a delicacy in many countries and, seeing as they make up more than 50% of the animal, why waste them? To make today’s dish, save prawn shells in the fridge or freezer. Chefs often joke that a fryer renders any food delicious, and that is certainly true here – according to my taste testers, anyway.
Crisp prawn heads and tails with shell salt
This is not a recipe for the squeamish. Sucking the juice from a prawn head is a real delicacy in many cultures, and a great way to prevent waste. This recipe takes the tradition a step further, by rendering the whole head delicious. You won’t find these alternative fries in McDonald’s, but that doesn’t mean they aren’t a treat.
Prawn heads, tails and shells
Cornflour, for dusting
Oil, for frying
Sea salt
Toss the prawn heads and tails in a dusting of cornflour and set aside. Heat 1-2cm frying oil in a wok or saucepan over a high heat and, when very hot, add the prawns’ body shells and fry until crisp. Lift out with a slotted spoon, and drain until cool and dry, then blend to a powder with a little sea salt – I used a spice grinder. Next, fry the heads and tails until crisp and serve hot with the salt on the side.
• The Guardian aims to publish recipes for sustainable fish. For ratings in your region, check: UK; Australia; US.
