Lifestyle

A dermatologist’s guide to SPF sunscreens including top tips and myths


Choosing a sunscreen can be a hard task (Picture: Reimann/ La Roche-Posay/ Murad)

It should go without saying that every single one of us should be wearing a broad-spectrum SPF every day.

Why? Because the sun still remains the biggest cause of premature and accelerated skin aging.

As much as we all love to bask in the sunshine, fine lines, wrinkling, uneven skin, tone, pigmentation and textural changes occur because of damage from sunlight. So for healthy, youthful complexion SPF is non-negotiable.

Yet choosing a sunscreen can be a hard task, not to mention the shockingly common SPF myths that circulate on the world wide web baffle and confuse.

So, to set the record straight about the biggest and most common sunscreen myths, Metro.co.uk spoke to La Roche-Posay Consultant Dermatologists Dr Hiva Fassihi and Dr Justine Hextall and here’s what we learnt.

Wear SPF everyday (not just in the summer)

From an anti-aging point of view, sunscreen should be worn on a daily basis.

‘I would recommend that everyone wears an SPF everyday because I do think it makes a difference, not only from the perspective of protecting against skin cancer, but also from an ageing point of view in the long-term.’ Dr Hiva Fassihi tells Metro.co.uk.

‘And should you use it all the way through the year, because you’re still going to make a change to the cumulative amount of UV that your skin is exposed to.’

And this is applies to everyone, no matter your skin tone

Regardless of skin type and tone it’s important to protect your skin from the sun.

‘Generally, and particularly with people with fairer skin types, I would advise you should always use an SPF50 to achieve the best effects on the skin.’

‘If you’ve got a darker skin-type, I think an SPF30 or above is probably satisfactory and will definitely make a difference with features of ageing, particularly pigmentation and loss of elastic tissue.’ Dr Hiva Fassihi explained.

Protect yourself against UVB and UVA

Dr Hiva Fassihi explained that ultra-violet radiation comes from the sun and its split into UVA and UVB – that’s what mainly gets to our skin on Earth.

And that ‘it’s important that we use suncreens that cover against UBV and UVA, both for skin cancer prevention and for ageing.’

  • UVB has a shorter wavelength and it’s a bit more damaging in that it can cause sunburn and is definitely associated with causing skin cancers in future life.
  • UVA is slightly different, though it can also cause skin cancers. It penetrates deeper in the skin and causes problems with photo-ageing, so skin ageing through breaking down collagen and elastin.
(Picture: Getty)

Understand SPF numbers

It’s important to note that using an SPF of 30 doesn’t provide double the amount of protection of SPF 15.

Dr Justine Hextall explained that to determine a sunscreen’s SPF, testers use sun-sensitive people and measure the amount of UV rays it takes them to burn without sunscreen.

The test is then repeated with sun cream. The ‘with sunscreen’ number is divided by the ‘without sunscreen’ number, and the result is rounded down to the nearest five. This is the SPF. In order to determine the sun protection factor (SPF), the following equation is used:

Minutes to burn without sunscreen x SPF number = maximum sun exposure time

There are two main types of suncreen: chemical and physical (mineral)

‘When choosing a sun cream there are broadly two types of protection: chemical blocks which absorb the UVB and UVA and physical blocks that reflect light rays from the skin,’ says Dr Justine Hextall.

However, Dr Justine Hextall explained that there are pros and cons to both: ‘Chemical blocks often rub in more easily and are felt to potentially have better protection against UVA. However, they can sometimes cause irritation and allergy which is less likely with physical blocks.

‘Physical blocks usually contain titanium dioxide and zinc oxide and are better tolerated. However sometimes the thick white cream is considered less cosmetically acceptable, particularly with darker skin tones.’

Wear a seperate sunscreen on your face

Although you don’t necessarily need to get a separate sunscreen for your face, Dr Hiva Fassihi encourages people to use a separate sunscreen as ‘the facial skin is very sensitive and varies in different people’ for instance many body sunscreens are quite heavy and may not be suitable for blemish-prone facial skin:

‘Some people are prone to getting breakouts or spots, some have very dry skin so you can really tailor your sunscreen for your face, dependent on your skin type.’

Also facial sunscreens may contain additional beneficial ingredients that body sunscreens lack, not forgetting ‘you can wear sunscreen almost as a primer, as a base layer before you put your make-up on and to give you that extra protection during the day’.

As for amount to apply, approx. half a teaspoon of sunscreen for the face and neck is about right.

Not all sunscreens give off a white cast

Dr Justine Hextall added: ‘There are clever physical blocks now, such as clear zinc that can be used on all skin tones. Many sun creams have a mixture of chemical and physical block.’

Check its expiry date

Sunscreen is generally designed to last three years.

However, if it has been exposed to extremely high temperatures, looks like it has changed in its colour or consistency, or is past its expiry date then don’t think twice about binning it.

Multiple products with SPF do not give additional protection

If you use a moisturiser with SPF followed by a sunscreen and then a foundation it will not result in a greater effect.

You will only have the protection of the highest SPF product that is being applied to the skin.



Shop the best SPF sunscreens

La Roche-Posay Anthelios Shaka Ultra-Light Fluid SPF50+

(Picture: La Roche -Posay)

For the face we recommend the new addition to Roche-Posay’s best-selling Anthelios suncare range Shaka Ultra-Light Fluid SPF50+.

It offers even higher UVA protection and is lighter and more invisible than the original ultra-light, with new Intelimer technology making it perfect for everyday use.

La Roche-Posay Anthelios Shaka Ultra-Light Fluid SPF50+, £16.50, buy now from laroche-posay.co.uk and lookfantastic.com

 

La Roche-Posay Anthelios Ultra-Light Invisible Mist SPF50+

(Picture: La Roche -Posay)

Don’t forget your limbs by applying La Roche-Posay’s Anthelios Ultra-Light Invisible Mist SPF50+.

It’s the brands first-ever SPF mist for body in a lightweight and instantly absorbed formula that is perfect for applying on-the-go.

La Roche-Posay Anthelios Ultra-Light Invisible Mist SPF50+, £22, buy now from laroche-posay.co.uk and lookfantastic.com

 

Murad City Skin Age Defence Broad Spectrum SPF50 I PA++++

(Picture: Look Fantastic

This revolutionary, ultra-light 100% mineral sunscreen from Murad goes beyond just sun protection (UVA and UVB) to shield against infrared radiation, pollution and even blue light from electronic devices.

Murad City Skin Age Defence Broad Spectrum SPF50 I PA++++, £60, buy now from lookfantastic.com and johnlewis.com

 

Riemann P20 Face Sun Cream SPF30

(Picture: Amazon)

P20 has launched its first ever cream-formulated sun protection, P20 FACE Sun Cream SPF30, developed specifically to protect the face from UV-induced skin damage.

The new formulation offers broad-spectrum UVA and UVB protection, is durable for up to 10 hours and with a 5-star UVA rating, it exceeds EU protection recommendation.

Riemann P20 Face Sun Cream SPF30, £16, buy now from boots.com and amazon.co.uk

 

Altruist Dermatologist Sunscreen SPF50

(Picture: Amazon)

The number one best-selling body SPF on Amazon not only protects, it’s affordable – so there’s no excuse not to wear protection.

Altruist has been set up by a UK skin cancer expert, a consultant dermatologist and a Dutch economist who wanted to do something good and help prevent skin cancer before people get it.

All the profits made are used to produce and sell more products and they also donate 10p from each sale to charity to help people with albinism in Africa, where sun protection is even more crucial.

Altruist Dermatologist Sunscreen SPF50, £7.50, buy now from amazon.co.uk

 

Perricone MD Photo-Brightening Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF30

(Picture: Feelunique)

This oil-free moisturiser from Perricone MD visibly brightens, tightens and reduces the appearance of dark spots.

And not forgetting, its formulation includes SPF30 to protects against environmental aggressors.

Perricone MD Photo-Brightening Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF30, £59, buy now from amazon.co.uk, feelunique.com and johnlewis.com

 

The Ordinary Mineral UV Filters SPF 15 With Antioxidants

(Picture: The Ordinary)

Calling all The Ordinary devotees.

The Ordinary’s range of Mineral UV Filters formulas’ offer SPF protection along with antioxidant, hydration, and anti-irritant support.

It’s suitable for all skin tones, is vegan friendly, cruelty and vegan free.

The Ordinary Mineral UV Filters SPF 15 With Antioxidants, £7.90, buy now from theordinary.com, cultbeauty.co.uk and beautybay.com

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